Home | Scree | Back Issues
=========================================================================
Scree
Newsletter of the Peak Climbing Section, Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter
February, 1995 Vol. 28, No. 2
=========================================================================
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NEXT MEETING
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tuesday, Feb. 14
Time: 8 p.m.
Place: Western Mountaineering
Town & Country
Shopping Center,
San Jose
Program: Visit the Khumbu Himal for a climb of Mera Peak 6476
meters/21,247 feet.) This is the highest of the eighteen trekkers peaks in
Nepal, and a place where you can get views of five 8000-meter peaks. You
have seen slides of Lukla, but probably have not seen slides of the Hinku
valley. Peaks, snow, and rivers are expected, but I'll throw in flowers
at no xtra cost!
(map of location in original)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nepal's Mera Peak
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NEPAL, sandwiched between India and China, is only half as large as
Colorado by area, but being situated along the highest points of the
Himalayan range, is twice as tall.
The country is a mecca for mountain scenery, trekking and climbing. Of
the countless possibilities, the Nepal Mountineering Association has
designated 104 expedition peaks and 18 "trekkers peaks." Mera Peak (6476
meters/21,247 feet) is the highest of the trekkers peaks and has been a
trek we've been considering for several years.
Located in the Khumbu Himal, the peak offers spectacular mountain scenery,
including views of five 8OOO- meter peaks. This October, Dean Lancaster,
Norm Henderson, Kris and John Wallack (Colorado Mountain Club members)
joined up with Warren Storkman, Steve Eckert, Andy Skumanich and Elaine
Holland (Peak Climbing Section members) to trek up the Hinku Valley and
climb Mera.
This was Warren's eighth trek in Nepal and so we used the Kathmandu-based
company Nepal Mountaineering Himal Treks Ltd. that he had used
successfully in the past. It turned out to be an excellent choice, as we
had experienced climbing Sherpas as well as a great support team for the
trek. animals.
After one heck of a long series of flights, we found ourselves in
80-degree fall weather of Kathmandu. We spent a couple days there while
the trekking company arranged our trekking and climbing permits. That
gave us a chance to visit Bodnath, a Buddhist stupa, Pashupatinath, a
Hindu temple on the holy Bagmati River, and the Durbar Square of
Bhaktapur.
The trek started with a 50-minute flight in a twin-engine Otter to the
short gravel landing strip at Lukla. This village, at 9200 feet, is the
starting point for all the Everest area treks and has obviously prospered
in the past few years. It has all the new building and bustle that I
imagine in the frontier towns of the old west. Lukla lies high on the
shoulder of the Dudh Kosi river valley, while Mera Peak is situated at the
end of the Hinku valley, one drainage to the east of the Dudh Kosi.
Rather than cross the l5,000-foot pass separating the two valleys
immediately, we planned a side trip to Namche Bazaar, heart of the Sherpa
culture, at 12,000 feet for acclimatization and views of Everest, Lhotse
and Ama Dablam.
After the four-day sojourn, we started again from Lukla but this time to
the east to cross the Sebuk Danda (danda = ridge). On the way up, we
camped in a small clearing in the fir and rhododendron forest called
Chutanga (11,300 feet). Over the 15,OOO-foot Zatrwa La (la = pass), we
camped above timberline on a on a relatively flat meadow called Tuli Karka
14,436 feet). Two days of hiking took us down through forested valley and
back up above timberline again to Tangnag (14,291 feet). This camp was
surrounded by glaciated 20,000-foot peaks. There were groups from
Australia, Belgium, England and Canada.
The Hinku valley was not quite the remote place described in O'Connor's
1988 guide. The next three days took us to Dig Karka, Kare, and finally
to base camp at Mera La (17,800 feet). This was a snow camp on a glacial
shelf that had great views west to the Charpati Himal. From Mera La we
could see the Mera Glacier ramping up the 3600 feet to the summit.
The glacier waIk up to high camp (19,000 feet) made for a short day and
allowed us to enjoy the views and the warmth of the rocky campsite. While
the valley was covered in the daily cold gray fog, we sat in full sunlight
on a patch of rock in a sea of glacier. Our summit day was mild and
clear. The entire climb was on low angle snow/glacier. The difficulty
was in breathing, not in any technical climbing.
We summited along with an Australian party and an English party. It
seemed almost like au alpine summit with the diverse groups and prayer
flag-laden wands. The views from the top were spectacular. We could see
Cho Oyu, Everest, I,hotse, Makalu and in the distance Kanchenjunga.
The trek took us 20 days from Kathmandu to Kathmandn. We had a couple of
extra days built in to the 22- day plan to allow for bad weather, but
didn't need the extra days. Four of us used the extra time to visit the
Chitwan Jungle after the trek.
References: By far the best resource is The Trekking Peaks of Nepal by
Bill O'Connor The best map of the area is Sorong/Hinku 1:5OOOO, Schneider
Series.
- John Wallack
reprinted from Thin Air, the newsletter of the (Colorado Mountain Club)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yosemite to start charging for mail-in wilderness permits
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reserving a Yosemite National Park wilderness permit by mail will cost $3
per person as of March 1, the park announced recently. Obtaining a permit
in person on a first-come first-served basis will remain free.
To reserve a permit, write a letter postmarked March 1 or later (letters
postmarked exactly March 1 have the best chance), stating the dates you
plan to enter and exit the wilderness, the specific trailheads where you
plan to start and end your trip, principal destination, number of people
in group and number of stock or pack animals.
Include a check for $3 per person made payable to the Yosemite
Association. Or you can include your credit card number and an expiration
date.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPCOMING TRIPS
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
*** MT. DIABLO
February 11
1,849 feet, Class 1
Leader Bob Suzuki (408) 259-0772
Enjoy a 17-mile loop in this beautiful East Bay State Park. This will be
co-listed with the Day Hikiug Section and is classified 4E (4-5000 feet
elevation gain). Heavy rain cancels. Carpool time: 7 a.m. Carpool
location: No host, at Cubberly High (Middlefield and Montrose) in Palo
Alto. Meeting time at trailhead: 8 a.m. Trailhead location: Rock City,
near South Gate.
*** PYRAMID PEAK
Feb. 18-20
9,983 feet, Class 2
Leader: Palmer Dyal (415) 604-6545 (w) (415) 941-5321 (h)
Co-leader: wanted
This will be a moderately paced, three-mile snowshoe trip to climb a
relatively easy peak in the Desolation Wilderness area southwest of Lake
Tahoe. The elevation gain is about 1,000 feet per mile and we plan to
camp at tree line. By using three days we will have time to build snow
caves and view the marvelous scenery. This will be a good trip for
beginning winter climbers.
*** MT. SIZER DEATH MARCH
February 26
Leaders: Steve Eckert
(415) 508-0500
e-mail: eckert@netcom.com
Kelly Maas (408) 279-2054
e-mail: maas@idtinc.com.
The Killer Coe Hike rides again! Join the Day Hiking and the Peak
Climbing Sections for this fast and steep trip up Mt. Sizer (3216 feet)
and as many other steep hills as we can cram into one day. Our scenic
route includes rock hopping down a stream that may be full this year, but
avoids The Narrows by climbing Mahoney Ridge. Expect about a 4F trip (20
miles, 6000 feet) with possible adjustments for weather. Carp001 at
Middlefield and Montrose in Palo Alto 7 a.m., or meet at the Henry Coe
park headquarters at 8:15 a.m.
*** THREE PEAKS DAY HIKE
March 5
Warren Storkman (415) 493-8959
Steve Eckert (415) 508-0500
c-mail: cckert@nctcom.com
Mt. Hamilton (4213 feet), Copemicus Peak (4360 feet) and the high point
of Grant Ranch (3000 feet). Join the DayHiking and the Peak Climbing
Sections for this permitted cross country route up peaks o n private land.
As an entire loop, this trip is a SF (24 miles, 5200 feet), but those with
less of an urge to bum calories can skip the northern loop and return to
the cars after the high peaks. Carpool at Middlefield and Montrose in
Palo Alto 7: 15 a.m., or meet at the Grant Ranch parking fee booth at 8
a.m.
*** X-C SKIING CABIN TRIP
March 11-12
Leaders: Vreni and Greg Rau (510) 582-5578
On Saturday we'll ski in the vicinity of Grover Hot Springs, so bring your
swimsuits! On Sunday we'll attempt Markleevillc Peak or Red Lake Peak.
This trip is for intermediate skiers. Co-listed with the Bay Chapter Ski
Touring section.
*** TELEMARK/X-C WEEKEND
Friday night, March 17 to Sunday, March 19
Leader: Bob Suzuki
This is the fourth annual skinny ski outing at the Apres Ski Lodge, Kings
Beach, North Lake Tahoe. You are also responsible for your own activities
on Saturday and Sunday. I plan on telemarking at Mt. Rose. Space is
limited so sign-up now!! Cost: $45 for two nights lodging, two breafasts,
two lunches and one supper plus $10 extra/person/weekend for semiprivate
room, if available. Also $10 for non-members of the Sierra Club.
Non-refundable unless someone replaces you. One house chore required per
weekend. Send check made out to Ron Lingelbach wit: Self addressed
stamped long envelope; home and work telephone; driver/rider status; # of
passengers; time and place of departure to:
Ron Lingelbach
1492 Pine Grove Way
San Jose Ca, 95129
408/253-8036 (h) at 9-10 p.m.
e-mail: linge@convex.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ahoy cybersurfers Sierra Club now on the Internet
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Want to debate the Sierra Club's grazing-rights policy but can't face
another long meeting? Too busy to compose a well-reasoned (and correctly
spelled) letter to the Loma Prietan If you're on the Internet, there's
hope. Aaron Schuman calls your attention to a new Usenet group,
alt.org.sierra-club. It's a brand new unmoderated electronic forum
devoted to discussion of issues concerning members of the Sierra Club.
Happy cybersurfing.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yikes
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Apologies to anyone who ended up at the Pacific Mountaineer on the wrong
night because of the editor's bonehead mistake in last month's Scree.
Apologies, also, to George Van Gorden for leaving off the date of his
Junipero Serra trip. And to Noreen Ford for getting her phone number
wrong in my own damn trip listing.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Spring/summer planning meeting
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's time for all leaders and prospective leadors to get their summer
trips planned and on the PCS trip schedule. Permit applications must be
postmarked March 1 for the best chance of obtaining permits.
There will be a trip planning meeting as detailed below to establish a PCS
summer trip schedule. All leaders and prospective leaders are encouraged
to attend. Free pizza will be provided. Bring your own beverages.
Date: Tuesday, Feb 1 1995
Time: 7 p.m.
Place: The Magliocco's
15944 Longwood Drive
Los Gatos CA 95032
(408) 358-1168
Bring: List of trips you would like to lead. Your the
own beverage.
Directions: If heading south on Highway 17, exit at Lark Avenue and cross
back over the freeway to Los Gatos Blvd. If taking Highway 85, exit at
Los Gatos Blvd/Bascom Ave. and head south. After passing Lark Ave while
on Los Gaots Blvd., Los Gatos-Almaden Road is third traffic signal. While
on Los Gatos-Almaden Road, there will be a black 35 mile-per-hour sign
with white numbers about 25 feet before you get to Longwood Drive. When
you see the sign, slow down quickly. It is easy to drive right past the
street. Go about O.1 miles down Longwood Drive to get to the house.
(a map of the location was in the original)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
A journey to a galaxy far, far away
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
I PREFR THE outdoors. That's the foundation on which my climbing
interests are based. Hence my lack of enthusiasm for climbing gyms.
Friends have even gotten the impression that I thoroughly disapprove of
gyms and would never go near one. The truth is that I've been meaning to
try one out-it's just been low on my priority list.
Recently the opportunity presented itself. When a major storm changed our
ice climbing trip to a ski trip theu canceled it altogether, I had a
choice: Either climb indoors or plant myself on my couch and watch the
Niners slaughter some Bears. My aversion to animal cruelty and my desire
to explore strange new worlds and new civilizations led me to Planet
Granite in Santa Clara. My belay slave on this stormy afternoon would be
the infamous Swedish climber, Tim Hult.
Let me start by saying that the experience was positive. Also, that I
have no other climbing gym experiences against which to compare it. The
only requirement, beyond forkiug over $13 for the day, is to show that you
can belay and tie in. Sounds easy enough, but both Tim and I required
modifications to our belaying techniques. I wonder how many belayers are
diligent about never taking their brake hand off the rope. We took ours
off each time we fed rope.
As KOME played on the speak ers, we looked around. The far corner houses
some dumbbells, a rowing machine, and about five other weight machines
Next to that is the bouldering area. Except for one relatively vertical
wall, it's all slightly to radically overhanging. This is unfortunate
since the gravity on Planet Granite is the same as back on Earth.
Our first destination, since it occupied most of our field of view, was
the roped climbing area. We were pleased to find the area uncrowded,
unlike most of Yosemite Valley. And unlike Earth, the surface of Planet
Granite is covered with waste rubber from a Teva factory. After tripping
over this stuff a few times we were eager for the security of vertical
"rock." Security is indeed the case, as everything was set up for top
roping when we were there - no lead climbing. The ropes are in place and
ready to go. Just walk up, the climber ties in, the belayer clips in, and
you're off. Planet Granite uses the Grigri, which is a very nice nice
belay device that I'd never used before. It's idiot-proof, which made it
perfect for us.
The "rock," I'm pleased to report, appears to be state-of-the-art or close
to it. Not quite like on Earth, but better than we had expected. At
least the structures don't look like the angled plywood found at most
gyms. Some of the rock is up against the walls, but there are also
several free-standing structures. There's even an arch bridging two of
them, as well as a couple of cracks.
We scanned the route descriptions at the base of each rock and found a 5.7
for our warm-up. Like most of the climbs we did, it was misrated. They
must use fuzzy logic to rate routes on Planet Granite. Another
observation is that the rock is more vertical than what I'm used to. This
meant that two hours of leisurely climbing left us so pumped that we
couldn't hang onto much of anything. Also, the climbs are much shorter
than most climbs on Earth -- about 25 feet at most. This made the easier
climbs very boring, but was a good thing when we were struggling up
something really heinous. It was also a good match for our short
attention spans.
A unique aspect of climbing at this place is that one does not have much
need for footwork. Or climbing shoes, for that matter. The same holds
that our hands struggled to grasp made for bomber foot holds. That's very
different from most climbing I've done.
In the end we had a lot of fun, and intend to return soon. It's a great
way to get or stay in shape if the weather back on Earth prevents you from
getting out. But once the rain stops and the days get longer, I'm headed
outside again.
One last warning. If you haven't already gotten the message, it's this:
Gym climbing is not the same as climbing on real rock. Captain Kirk found
this out while free-soloing in Yosemite. Some of the physical aspects of
the climbing are different, hut the most importaut differences are mental.
On Grauite and other planets like it, almost nothing can go wrong There is
no consequence to a fall. The climber and belayer can always hear one
another. There is no rappelling, anchor setting, and no decision- making
required. There is no expo- sure. Whether this is good or bad is a
matter of personal taste. What's important is that anyone who begins
their climbing career in such a place should be as cautious as any
neophyte when venturing onto real rock for the first several times. Go
with someone who's experienced on Earth rock, and be careful.
- Kelly Maas
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRIVATE TRIPS
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Private trips are not insured, sponsored or supervised by the Sierra club
or the PCS. They are listed here as a courtesy to the organizers because
they may be of interest to PCS climbers.
*** MT LANGLEY
February 18-21
14,000 ft., Class 3 snow climb
Organizer George Van Gorden 408) 779-2320
Give yourself a winter vacation. Get away from all the stress and hassle
of work and family life and get into the stress and hassle and trepidation
of winter climbing instead. You'll be glad to get back to the office.
This climb is a moderately serious undertaking and winter camping
experience is required; some experience with ice axe and crampons is
desirable. Snowshoes will be necessary on the approach. If the weather
is too crazy, we will climb a lesser mountain in the area: Mt. Inyo, east
of Lone Pine, or Telescope Peak, west of Death Valley.
*** MT. SHASTA
February 18-20
14,162 ft. Class 3
Organizer: Tim Hult (408) 970-0760
This President's Weekend trip, to Shasta's Sargent's Ridge, is for
experienced alpine climbers - not those who think it might be "fun" to
"try" this landmark peak. To qualify, you must have snow camping and
snow/ice climbing skills, plus all the proper gear necessary to stay alive
at -10 degrees in gale force winds at 14,000 feet. We will be using snow
shoes / skis to access the ridge, so proficiency with either of these is a
must. Participants should be flexible in their planning as the exact date
will depend on snow conditions, group flexibility and the weather. This
climb is the perfect "warmup" for Denali or the Himalayas.
*** MT. RALSTON
March 5-6
Organizer: Eugene Miya (415) 961-6772 (w)
This is a skiing and snow camping trip to a significant but easily reached
peak in the Desolation Wilderness near Lake Tahoe. It is being organized
with the ski touring section. Beginning snow campers welcome.
*** MT. SHASTA
March 18-19
14,162 ft, Class 3+
Green Butte Ridge
Organizer: Kai Wiedman (415) 347-5234
The symmetry of the Green Butte Ridge has attracted mountaineers for
years. It soars skyward to meet Sargents Ridge just below Thumb Rock.
The Green Butte can be a quick and safe winter approach to the upper
reaches of Sargents. Come join us for this airy, challenging and scenic
climb. Participants should be in good condition, for our summit day will
gain 4,700 feet.
*** MAY BE THREE PEAKS
Warren Storkman and Steve Eckert will be doing Three Sisters
as a day hike, followed by Spanish
Mtn and Tehipite Dome as an
overnight backpack on May 19-21.
The Friday day hike is optional, but
visits a seldom-climbed area. All three
peaks are on the SPS list, and all are
Class 1 except a short portion of
Tehipite that is Class 3. Mark your
calendars and watch Scree for more
information.
*** SIERRA SOLITUDE
The Fourth of July Weekend is usually crowded, but this year Warren
Storkman and Steve Eckert will be taking you to the most remote place in
the Sierra: Over Hell-For-Sure Pass, across the Ionian Basin, down the
Enchanted Gorge, over the Black Divide, and exiting over Bishop Pass.
This one-way crossing goes past many desirable peaks, but if you don't
have an entire week, join us for a three-day climb of Mt Goddard and you
can make it back to work on Tuesday! We will probably hire mules to ferry
food up to Martha Lake, so pack weight will be less of a problem. Mark
your calendars and watch Scree for more information.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLASSIFIEDS
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
WILL TRADE: Used black and purple pile pants (med.) for large size. Also
red "CB Thermotech" lined ski pants (size 32) for larger sized ski pants
or for large breathable/water-proof type rain pants. Jim Schollard, (408)
439-0708.
FOR SALE: Moonstone Polaris Mummy Bag (0 degrees, 6-foot long, left
zipper) polarguard fill. Excellent condition! Make offer. Jim
Schollard, (408) 4394708.
PARTNER(S) WANTED: For African journey. Photo safari/camping/climb
Kilimanjaro. Sometime this spring/ early summer. Interested? Phone Tim
Hult (408) 970-0760
FOR SALE: REI Mountain Hut tent. Three-season dome with room for three
adults. Weight: 7.5 pounds. Getting on in years but still has a few good
seasons left. Perfect for families. $35. John Flinn h: (415) 968-2050,
w: (415) 777-8705. e: jflirm@aol.com.
FOR SALE: "New" Five Tennies, size 10, excellent condition. Only worn for
about three hours (when I discovered they were too small!). Paid $80,
will entertain any reasonable offer. Jim Curl w: (408)452-6557, h:
(408)371-4741.
=========================================================================
THE BACK PAGE
=========================================================================
CHAIRPERSON
Debbie Benham
1722 Villa St. #2
Mountain View, CA 94041
(415) 964-0558 (h)
VICE CHAIR/SCHEDULER
Paul Magliocco
15944 Longwood Dr.
Los Gatos, CA 95032
(408) 358- 1168 (h)
e-mail: pmag@ix.netcom.com
TREASURER
Phyllis Olrich
750 Homer Ave.
Palo Alto, CA 94301-2907
(415) 322-0323 (h)
(415) 7251.541 (w)
e-mail: PhyjlisO@forsythe.stanford.edu
SCREE EDITOR
John Flinn
133 Promethean Way
Mountain View, CA 94043
(415) 968-2050 (h)
(415) 777-8705 (w)
e-mail: jnflinn@?aol.com
Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra
Club. Loma Prieta chapter. Subscriptions are $10 per year. Checks
payable to the PCS, should be mailed to the treasurer, Phyllis Olrich. To
ensure an uninterrupted subscription, renewal checks must be received no
later than the last Tuesday of the expiration month.
For change of address, contact Paul Vlasveld 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose,
CA 95117; (408) 247-6472 (h), (408) 257-7910 x3613(w)
PCS meetings are held the second Tuesday of each month. See Scree for
location and program information.
The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you
are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions
Class 1: Walking on a trail.
Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing. A rope may be used occasionally.
Class 4: Requires rope belays.
Class 5: Technical rock climbing.
Deadline for March issue: Wednesday, March 1
Peak Climbing Section
789 Daffodil Way
San Jose, CA 95217
First Class Mail
"Vy can't ve chust climb?" -- John Salathe