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Scree for June, 1996
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This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
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This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
June, 1996 Vol. 30, No. 6
Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 6/23/96.
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Next meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)
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Date: Tuesday 11 June 1996
Time: 7:30 pm
Location: Pacific Mountaineer 200 Hamilton Avenue, Palo Alto
Program: Trango Towers
World Class climber Eric Brand will give a presentation on
the Trango Towers.
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ The easiest way to distinguish the difference +
+ between a grizzly bear and a black bear is to +
+ climb a tree. If the bear climbs up the tree +
+ and eats you, it is a black bear. If the bear +
+ knocks the tree down and eats you, it is a +
+ grizzly. +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
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Subscription/Application Form
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To apply for or to renew your subscription to SCREE and/or
membership in the PCS, or to change your address, please fill in
the form below. Please provide all information so that we can
update outdated information and maintain the best possible
roster. For the safety of our members, your street address will
not be printed when the roster is published in the Scree/EScree,
nor will your telephone numbers if you indicate so at the bottom
of the form. But please remember, we publish the roster so that
other PCS members can reach you when coordinating trips, or to
return gear that you left in their cars, so the more information
the better!
Please return this completed form, along with your check to
cover the subscription fee [if you need to renew] and/or your
donation [as requested on the back page], to the PCS Treasurer
[at the US mail or Email address on the back page].
- Charles Schafer
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Note: The roster may be re-published in the July issue if
there are sufficient changes as a result of this form.
Please send it now, even if you are not renewing your
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can reach them! In the future, your hardcopy issue of the
Scree should contain this (or a similar) form one month
before you must renew. Your mailing label indicates the
month your subscription expires.
- Editor
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Lassen
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On Saturday 4th May 1996, 5 of us climbed Lassen Peak
(10,457'), lead by George Van Gorden. The others were
Adrienne, Liz Binkley, Ted Raczeck and Arun Mahajan.
We started hiking at the parking lot for the Sulphur Works
which is close to the Lassen Chalet (southwest entrance of the
park, via 89). The road was closed at that point, even though
they had taken the pains to plow it right up to Lake Helen,
something we couldn't fathom why.
With George on skis and the rest on snowshoes, we followed a
ski trail till we came to Diamond point where we got the road.
After a couple of such cut-thrus, we walked on the road till we
were at Lake Helen. There is a lot of snow there, we saw banks
of up to 20' on the side of the road at some places.
>From Lake Helen, we headed up towards the ridge that leads to
the summit. At about 9000', we switched to crampons and after
some steep parts came to the ridge. We did cross the Lassen
Peak trail at a couple of places. Within 20 mins after getting the
ridge, we were at the summit. George climbed it from the
steeper south side, while the rest came up from around the
summit hump. It had taken us 5 hrs to get the summit. It was
about 2 pm then.
It was a perfect day, warm and low winds. It was not clear
enough to see Diablo to the south (as has been claimed), but
Shasta dominated the view in the north. After 30 mins for lunch
at the summit, we headed down. Getting down up to Lake Helen
was quick due to a couple of exciting glissades. After slogging
the rest of the way cross-country, we made it to the cars at 6pm.
It was a 9 hour day with close to 4000' gain (the chalet is at
6640' I think) at a moderate pace.
It is 6.75 miles by road to the trailhead of the Lassen Peak trail
from the Chalet, and 2.3 miles to the summit by the LP Trail. It
is not clear how many miles we clipped off by cutting thru the
switchbacks, but judging by how tired we were, it could have
been a 14 to 15 mile round-trip.
Here endeth the lassen.
- Arun Mahajan
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Third Time's The....
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John Muir climbed Mt. Shasta for the last time on April 30,
1875, forty days following the vernal equinox. During the
descent of this majestic mountain, he and his partner found
"...wind sufficiently violent to hurl us bodily over the cliffs
(and)...our only hope was in wearing away the afternoon and
night among the fumaroles, where we should at least avoid
freezing." Kai Wiedman's adventurous and memorable winter
trip to Shasta reminded us of the renowned naturalist and
explorer. Fortunately, ours did NOT include an overnight in the
sulfur hot springs!
Twice our plans to climb Mt. Shasta via Sergeant's Ridge had
been scrapped due to harsh winter weather reports. To truly
have a winter ascent of Mt. Shasta, we had to climb the peak
before March 20th, the vernal equinox, and, technically, the
space-time continuum marker for Spring. The weekend of
March 16-17 proved fruitful, as the sun was shining on our
window of opportunity. Away we went, gathering at the Bunny
Flat trailhead, ready to climb_Kai, our leader, Chris Kramar,
Phyllis Olrich, and me (Debbie Benham). As Phyllis said on the
drive to Shasta City, "We didn't come up here to footsy
around!!"
We reached Sergeant's Ridge and started up the 'dog leg'. Spin
drift was seen off the Ridge and whirling from Shasta-Rama.
We stashed our snow shoes half-way up the leg of Sergeant's
and, simultaneously, decided to make base camp near the
Thumb, the intersection of Green Butte and Sergeant's. This
would allow a speedier ascent the next day, especially with the
wind looking fierce on the flat landscape of Shasta-Rama. Sun
beating down, we stayed on the west side of the Ridge. Gusts of
wind hit us occasionally as we traversed 45 degree slopes, each
of us taking the lead in short bursts. As I crunched my boot into
the soft layering of snow, embedding my ice axe with each step,
I felt strong and was looking toward the hidden summit with
anticipation.
Then, almost without realizing it, the wind did not let up, did
not stop, did not relent. Prone against the mountain, boot tips
dug in perpendicular to the slope, ice axe shoved in, we, each
one of us, realized we would go no further. Kai started to
descend and I, for one, breathed a sigh of relief. The wind had
taken my strength away. Phyllis called it "the ridge from hell."
Kai and Chris estimated the winds to be 80 mph.
We descended twice trying to find a calm area to camp for the
night. The winds blew all night. The next morning, ever
gallant, the gentlemen again climbed the ridge to retrieve our
snowshoes. We treated them to lunch in town. Thank you again
guys! And, thanks, Kai, for a grand adventure in the mountains!
MOUNTAINEERING TIP: Kai suggests the following to train
for a winter summit of Mt. Shasta: go to a nearby international
airport; stand naked behind a 747; and feel the air-blast of the
plane preparing for take-off.
- Debbie Benham (3/30/96)
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Girl Bears Shots To Save Cub
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Silver City, New Mexico: Seven year-old Juliette Harris is getting
seven rabies shots, each through a five-inch needle, to save the life of
a little black bear cub that Nipped Her. "I just didn't want that cute
baby bear to die", said Juliette. "he's so small."
Juliette, who lives in front of bear creek in Pinos Altos, came
across the cub she's named "Stubby" on may 5th while walking
in the woods. she was lugging the 8-pound cub home for a pet
when it bit her hand.
Juliette led authorities to the little cub, who state officials said
would have to be killed and examined for rabies. That's when
Juliette, a lifelong animal lover, started to bargain. She would
take seven rabies shot through a 5-inch needle if the bear could
be saved. "Those needles hurt, but not that bad," said Juliette.
"The first day, I had to have one in my leg and one in my arm,
which wasn't so good."
Her parents are footing the bill, which will total more than
$1500. Meanwhile, the female cub is being cared for by 'Gila
Wildlife Rescue' of Silver City and is expected to be sent to an
Espanola wildlife center. The bear might be released in the late
autumn or next spring.....
- Mike Ogurek , on rec.backcountry
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Notes and Requests
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*** Gregory Snowcreek Looking For Good Home
I have a large (it fits me nicely and I am 5' 10") Gregory
Snowcreek internal frame pack I am selling for $25. It needs
one small patch but other than that it is in great shape. If you
have any questions drop me a line and I will do my best to
answer them.
- John Flavin < John_Flavin@3mail.3Com.COM>
*** Private Trek: Nepal 1996
The world's most scenic views of Ana Dablam and Mt. Everest
from the Tengboche Monastery will be only one of the many
mountain views we'll enjoy. This 18-20 day trek takes us
through Namche Bazaar with the climb of Gokyo Ri - Kala Patar
- option of Island Peak (20,300ft.). This private $1550 trek is in
October which is the best weather time. For more information,
fax 415-4493-8975 or phone 415-493-8959.
- Warren Storkman < dstorkman@aol.com>
*** Mountain Hardwear Trango 3 4-Season Tent
I have a Mountain Hardwear Trango 3 4-season tent for sale. It's
similar to a Sierra Designs Stretch Dome, but better. I have
used both, and the Mountain Hardwear tent has better features.
If you have read the reviews, you know that Mountain Hardwear
makes some of the best 4-season products around. Hard-core
mountaineers like Ed Vestiurs use Mountain Hardwear tents.
This tent is like-new, used maybe three times. More details can
be viewed on the web:
http://www.sportsite.com/mountain/trango.html
It's a $400 tent. Make offer at 408-446-0387 (work) or email.
- Will Estes
*** Premier Preteen on Peak!
12 year old Merrick Johnston is the youngest person to summit
Denali. After a rigorous training regime of hiking with a full
pack for four to five hours twice a week, four days each week of
gymnastics and snowboarding on the weekends, Merrick began
her 26 day approach. Accompanied by her mother ("Would you
send a 12 year old up by herself?") and a guide team, the
youngster reached the summit on June 23. She plans to climb all
of the seven summits -- after completing seventh grade!
*** Private Peruvian Exploration Trip
Explore Machu Picchu, and the Cordella Balanc in August.
Exact departure dates are TBD as is the duration of our trip (2 -
3 weeks), but at a minimum, I plan to visit both Machu Picchu
and the Cordillera Blanca or the Huayhuash "one of the most
spectacular mountain circuits in the world." If there is sufficient
interest, we will climb a peak, or trek any of a number of trails.
Interested? This is a private, non-guided, led or otherwise
commercial trip (i.e. I'm going, not "organizing" or "leading". If
you would like to go, I'd like to have you along). Participants
should be prepared to hike long miles at high altitude (up to
16,000 ft.) on a daily basis.
- Tim Hult 408-970-0760
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GPS, Use It Or Loose It?
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I've just been reading in the paper about the recent tragedy on
Everest, including the presumed death of Rob Hall. The story
makes a profound statement : "High technology, better clothing
and improved equipment have made it far easier to climb the
highest mountains, but also easier to get into situations that can
suddenly become fatal." To add to this, one of Hall's associates,
Andy Harris, "somehow missed the tents in the whiteout.". Too
bad he didn't have and use GPS to help guide himself back to
camp. Could GPS have made a difference? A life and death
difference? It's high tech and from my experience could have
easily guided him back, "safely", to his tent. I've been scorned by
some who say that using GPS is "cheating", or isn't proper
mountaineering etiquette. They eschew GPS's advantages and its
potential to resolve route finding dilemmas as was apparently
experienced by Harris. I've found GPS isn't an end-all to route
finding. It is a navigational AID, albeit a very powerful aid. You
can still misuse the device, but it seems to me in Harris's
situation it may have helped save his life. Call me a cheater, but
don't call me late for happy hour.
- Mark Adrian
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Permit Scalping
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The Editor was not at the PCS meeting, but has heard that one
person stood up and said he had adopted a "saturation" approach
and had permits for just about every weekend during the
climbing season, which he was willing to sell to others.
The PCS has not taken a position on transferring permits, but
this Editor thinks we should step back and think about whether
we would like others to do what we might do... namely give
permits to others instead of turning them back in to the service
for re-issue. How would you like it if all the permits for your
trailhead were taken by another climbing group, or by an
individual, so that you had to join their club or pay their prices
to enjoy the wilderness?
Below is email from the SC-PEAKS broadcast which indicates
the potential risk of giving away or selling permits. If scalping
(with or without profit) becomes common, I assume enforcement
will inevitably follow.
- Editor
From: Wbenti@aol.com
Subject: Re: Legality issue/permits
I just spoke with the Bridgeport office of the
USFS, and was told permits are not transferable
(fine/misdemeanor). Apparently, one of the
reasons this system was developed by the USFS was
to keep permits from being scalped/sold in a
"black market" type of situation. Also, to
fulfill the requests made by people who went to
the trouble of sending/faxing in an order but
didn't get a permit the first time around.
I suppose you could risk it. I've not ever been
asked for ID by a backcountry ranger - only to
see the permit in possession.
Too bad, cause I was going to pounce upon the
ones [name removed] had to offer for [place
removed]! Good intentions! Oh well!
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Official (PCS) Trips
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PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see
back cover for details). Trips not submitted to the
Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.
*** Visualize Whorled Mountaineers
Peaks: Whorl (12,029'), Matterhorn (12,264') class 3
Dates: June 8-10 Sat-Mon
Maps: Matterhorn Peak 15' quadrangle or Twin Lk, Dunderberg Pk & Matterhorn Pk 7.5'
Leader: Aaron Schuman H 415-933-1901 W 415-968-9184 schuman@sgi.com
Co-leader: Steve Eckert H/W 415-508-0500 eckert@netcom.com
Test your advanced mountaineering skills on the two most
savage crags of the rugged Sawtooth Range. We'll start
from Twin Lakes (7,092'), just west of Bridgeport,
immediately take on the waterfall leading to the hanging
Horse Creek valley, camping by a frozen tarn at 10,500'.
Sunday at dawn we'll surmount the cornice of 10,700'
Horse Creek Pass, sidehilling to the Whorl Mountain. We'll
search for the class 3 route Roper claims to have found,
but we'll be prepared to belay the original class 4 route if
necessary. Monday we'll set out from the same high
camp, gaining Matterhorn Peak from the pass, then pack
out. Competence on steep snow and rock are required of
all participants.
*** Goode and Agassiz
Peaks: Agassiz (13,891'), Goode (13,092') class 2
Dates: June 29-30 Sat-Sun
Leader: Debbie Benham (before 10pm) H 415-964-0558
Co-Leader: Bill Kirkpatrick H 408-293-2447 W 408-279-3450 0003780631@mcimail.com
Formerly called Agassiz Needle, this "giant mass" lies at
the northwest end of the Palisades. On Saturday, we'll
climb Mt. Agassiz from Bishop Pass and enjoy the
magnificent views. Before packing out on Sunday, we'll
hike up Mt. Goode. We welcome all beginning peak
climbers with prior backpacking experience.
*** Taboose Pass Peak Fest
Peaks: Arrow, Pinchot, Wynne, Striped, Goodale class 3
Dates: June 30-July 6 Sun-Sat
Leader: Debbie Bulger 408-457-1036
This week-long backpack and peak fest will take us to the
top of Taboose Pass where peaks abound. We'll take two
days to get to our first base camp above Bench Lake from
where we shoot to Arrow (class 2, 12,958'). Secor calls the
view of Arrow from the Bench Lake Trail one of the classic
views in the Sierra. Next we head back to Lake Marjorie to
score Pinchot (class 2, 13,495') and Wynne (class 3
13,179'). Then it's back to the pass to skunk Goodale
(class 2, 12,790') and Striped (class 2, 13,120'). On the
way we'll take time to smell the flowers and enjoy the
views. A $5 check reserves your place. Check with leader
to be sure there is room.
*** Ansel Adams
Peak: Mt Ansel Adams (12,760') class 3
Map: Mt Lyell 7.5 min topo
Dates: July 4-7 Thur-Sun
Leader: Kai Wiedman 415-347-5234
Co-Leader: Phyllis Olrich 415-322-0323
Steve Roper calls this peak a spectacular sight from the Lyell
Fork of the Merced. The real attraction of this area lies in the
remote, sublime beauty of these peaks, lakes and views.
Some of the most spectacular scenery in the Park is found in
this area with its vast sweeping panoramas. Our trip will take
us 22 miles into this rugged and remote landscape. Come join
us for this once in a lifetime experience.
*** It's Brewer, Bubb!
Peak: Mt Brewer (13,570') class 2
Dates: July 12-14 Fri-Sun
Leader: Roger Crawley 415-321-8602
Co-Leader: Bill Kirkpatrick
>From the trailhead in Cedar Grove, Kings Canyon (5075')
the route follows Bubbs Creek to Junction Meadows, then
East Creek to our camp at East Lake (9,445'). The second
day we'll go up Ouzel Creek and climb the south ridge to
the summit. Permit for 6.
*** Virginia and Twin
Peaks: Virginia (12,001'), Twin (12,314') class 3
Map: Matterhorn Peak USGS 15'
Dates: July 13-14 Sat-Sun
Leader: Jim Ramaker 408-224-8553 evenings, ramaker@vnet.ibm.com
Steep metamorphic rock and beautiful surroundings keep
bringing me back to this enchanting corner of northeast
Yosemite. Join me for another go. We'll do the 7-mile hike
from Green Creek to Return Lake on Saturday, and
maybe do a warm-up climb of Grey Butte (11,200) in the
late afternoon. Sunday we'll tackle the east face of
Virginia, and time permitting, traverse the ridge over to
Twin (12,314). Virginia is fairly steep and loose, so
experienced class 3 climbers only on this trip.
*** Will You Sing, Gale?
Peak: Gale, Sing class 2
Dates: Jul 20-21 Sat-Sun
Map: Merced Peak 15 min Quad
Leader: Warren Storkman 415-493-8959 dStorkman@aol.com
We go over Chiquito Pass in Southern Yosemite Park. Call
leader for more information.
*** Russell's Horns
Peak: Mt Russell (14,086') class 3
Dates: July 28-30 Sun-Tue
Leader: Roger Crawley 415-321-8602
Co-Leader: Bill Kirkpatrick
Starting from the Mt Whitney trailhead we'll go up the North
Fork of Lone Pine Creek and camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake.
Monday we'll head for the east arete via the Russell-Carillion
saddle. The scary part will be crossing from the east horn to
the west horn (which is the highest). An option after the
Russell climb is to hike in the Mt Langley area for 3-4 more
days. Permit for 6.
*** Royce With Roger
Peak: Royce Peak (13,253') class 2
Dates: Aug 24-25 Sat-Sun
Leader: Roger Crawley 415-321-8602
Co-Leader: (wanted)
We start from the Pine Creek Pass trailhead near Bishop.
We climb 4000' to the top - about 11,200' - and camp. On
Sunday we climb the southeast ridge to the summit of
Royce. I bout that we'll also climb Merriam Peak, but it's
an option. Permit for 8.
*** Muriel Peak
Peak: Muriel (12,942'), Goethe (13,240') class 3
Dates: Sept 14-16 Sat-Mon
Leader: Roger Crawley 415-321-8602
Co-Leader: Bill Kirkpatrick
This is the Glacier Divide between Humphrey's Basin and
Darwin Canyon. From the North Lake trailhead we go up
2000' over Piute Pass and camp at Muriel Lake (11,336').
Sunday we take the class 2 knapsack pass up through the
keyhole (12,560') then up the southeast ridge to the
summit of Muriel Peak. Next we drop down to Alpine Col
(12,320') and climb the class 3 northeast ridge on Mount
Goethe. Permit for 8.
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1,100 Mile Coastal Walk
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On June 1, a handful of Bay area hikers will take a 1,110-mile, 112-
day trek from Oregon to Mexico, to demonstrate their commitment to
preserving California's coastal trails and beaches. Coastwalk
spokeswoman Vonnie Madigan said five hearty hikers from Santa
Rosa, Alameda, Los Altos, Walnut Creek and Cotati will join 13
other Californians to draw attention to the importance of keeping
public land open along the state's coast.
Fifty-seven-year-old Dinesh Desai and his 49-year-old wife, Joy,
of Los Altos, said they plan to hike 650 miles from San
Francisco down to Mexico with their friend Bob Cowell, 51, of
Alameda. The retired couple said they are both mountain
climbers and aren't worried about walking 12 or so miles a day
and camping outdoors.
Marilyn Goeller, a 57-year-old Walnut Creek resident who suffers
from arthritis but plans to do the entire trek anyway, said she is going
on the Coastwalk for both personal and public reasons. ``I want to
show that a woman my age in my physical condition can get out
there and do this. But I also want to show everyone my commitment
to keeping California's coast open to the public,'' she said.
The hike is timed to honor the Coastal Act's 20th anniversary. It
is the first California Coastal Trail Hike of its kind and is
sponsored in part by the Coastal Conservancy. Madigan said the
walkers, who range in age from 18 to 72 years and who are
mostly women, will walk along state beaches until Sept. 17. On
the way, they will meet up with others who will join them on
partial day hikes throughout the walk. Each person raised some
$3,000 to walk on the hike and those who participate for a day
will pay about $30, Madigan said.
On July 16, the hikers will walk through the Marin Headlands,
over the Golden Gate Bridge, and along Baker and China
beaches in San Francisco.
- Aaron Schuman
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A Scouting Trip Gone Tragically Right
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This report is dedicated to Tony "the snowstorm" Cruz, who has
tried two springs in a row to do Williamson via George Creek. I
was with him last year when knock-you-down winds turned us
back from the lip of the summit plateau (or maybe the lower
shoulder). It was snowing and we could not look into the
stinging wind and several people had cold extremities. Good call
to turn back.
This year, Tony put together a merry band of climbers and
lengthened the trip in the hope of getting higher and increasing
the odds of a short and sweet summit day. But then again, you
probably read Rich Calliger's trip report about getting snowed
out on a solo pre-climb conditioning trip. Icy base with a foot of
fresh snow on top. We canceled the scheduled trip in deference
to avalanche danger, and because a second storm was bearing
down. Oh, well.
Some of us, however, refuse to unpack our packs until we get
the job done. I was interested in scouting a CMC trip in the
area, so David Harris and I headed up George Creek on Friday
(4/26/96) still thinking about whether to try packing up to 11000
and summiting the second day or packing two days in a row to
get up to 12000. Our packs were laden with all the stuff that we
needed to survive Rich's snowy experience, much of which we
never even unpacked!
If you've never been up this drainage, DON'T follow the guide
book suggestions. Stay on the north side of the stream, never
more than 50' above it, where there is a nice trail from road's end
to the first big turn of the stream. Lots of fake trails go up the
sandy slope, but if you stick near the stream you will re-discover
the good one. When you get to tall cliffs in a major bend, you
need to cross to the south side. The trail goes to the stream here,
but you should cross 100' downstream where there is a big log.
Once on the south side, you are set except for two obstacles.
One is a 20' cliff that can be scaled with the aid of fallen limbs
(which we did, dragging the packs up with an ice axe) or you
can cross the stream and IMMEDIATELY cross back. If you
make the mistake of staying on the north, you will pay with
scratched legs. The second obstacle is where the stream brushes
against a rock wall. We chose to hop the stream and come back,
but you may be able to climb above this one. Stay on the south
side all the way to where the stream forks, then go to the north
of the north fork and stay there until you hit campsites in the
10000-11000' range. There are many places to dig in a tent if
you don't mind snow camping. There is also a flat spot around
9000', but that would make a 5000+ summit day.
OK, back to the story: I was encountering some "intestinal
distress", and almost turned back at 11000' on peak day (day 2
of the trip). David graciously offered to carry almost all of our
gear, and we managed to maintain about 800 ft/hr average to the
peak, arriving at noon. The snow was crampon-hard, even with
plastic boots, until it warmed up later in the day and at about
13000'.
A couple was camped near us, and had summited the day we
packed in, but they were monosyllabic in their responses. Our
favorite was when we asked them if they had lost a water bottle.
No response. We told them we found one on the way in. "Good
for you." We dubbed them The UnFriendly Couple, and
remarked to each other that we had never before been unable to
get info on conditions from someone descending.
Another group, climbing Bairs Creek, was nice enough to start
at 4:30am on the same day we summited, and left a nice trail of
kicked steps up to the final summit plateau. (They were Sierra
Clubbers from LA, but not on an official trip.) We had lunch,
admired the view, checked out my intended loop of
Barnard/Trojan/Versteeg (which can't be done via the route I
wanted to take because one chute is too steep for safe snow
travel), chatted, took pictures, etc. All that summit stuff we love
so well.
Back in camp by 2, we decided to shoot for dinner in Lone Pine.
It had taken 8.5 hours to pack in from 6200 to 10000, and it took
5 hours to pack out. Tough both ways, but it was nice to have
someone else cook dinner after a 13 hour summit day. If you're
going this year, do NOT take plastic boots. You won't want them
until 11000', and there are a lot of logs and rocks to climb over.
Let's all drink a toast to Tony, and encourage him NOT to take
the easy way in this summer. Save Williamson for the challenge
and the views as the high sierra unfolds during your climb out of
the George Creek drainage next year. It's a two-day trip if you
are in good shape, and if you can drive back the next day or
crash at someone's house in Ridgecrest!
- Steve Eckert
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Roundtop & Roundabout
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Trip report of the PCS trip to Roundtop Mountain (10381 ft) and
Red-Lake-Peak (10000+), March 16/17 1996. George Van
Gorden (leader), Dennis Hilpakka, Richard and Helena Verrow,
Scott Kreider, Ted Raczek and Arun Mahajan
16th March, Saturday. Red Lake Peak.
We all gathered at about 11 am at the snow-park at Carson Pass,
a few miles north of the Kirkwood XC Ski place. (Remember to
obtain the snow-park permits which cost $3 per day at the XC
place, else there is a $75.0 citation.) We hiked with full packs
for about a mile south of the pass and set up camp. Then we set
off for Red Lake Peak which is on the north side of the pass.
This peak is not visible from the pass. The climbing begins
almost right away and we had to use snowshoes. After some
steep uphill, we came to the shoulder of the first hill which is
the beginning of the ridge that goes eastwards to the summit.
Potential avalanche danger made George decide on going this
way rather than go straight up the chute leading to the summit.
Here we dropped our snow shoes and climbed the first hill.
Then we put on our crampons, though they were not strictly
needed. The final walk is a little strenuous and it was cold when
the wind picked up.
With George leading the way, we were soon at the summit at 3
pm after a total of 2.5 hrs from the camp site. We had good
views of Pyramid Peak and Tahoe and Roundtop. Then, a little
more than an hour of brisk down climbing got us back down to
the pass. I did not see this peak in the SPS list. Wonder why? It
is a beautiful summit.
17th March, Sunday. Roundtop Mountain.
We started at 8.30 am in snowshoes towards Roundtop. We
mostly stuck to the XC-ski trail and once we got out of the
woods, Roundtop was in full view. It is a very picturesque peak
with a steep summit block. Between us and the peak is some
excellent ski terrain, heaven for back-country skiers. George was
on his skis, the rest had snowshoes. We slogged to the base, and
then we climbed to the final ridge from the gully on the right, as
it was rather steep to go straight up to the ridge. Once on the
ridge, we switched to crampons.
The snow was crusty. I suppose we could have done without
crampons too, but having an axe was very prudent. George led
the push. It was quite steep but the snow wasn't hard or icy and
after some cautious climbing we reached the summit. It had
taken us 3 hrs from the camp. After lunch and basking in the
balmy sun ('vibing with nature' as Helena called it) and soaking-
in the glaciated scenery, we started down. Again after some
careful descending and after the trudge thru the rest of the trail,
we were back at the camp site. It had taken us 3 hrs to the
summit, and a little over 2 hours to get back to the tent site.
- Arun Mahajan
Arun didn't mention it in his trip report, but Red Lake Peak is
the first recorded peak climb in the Range of Light. Francis P.
Farquhar, in the History of the Sierra Nevada, quotes the diaries
of first ascenders Lt. John C. Fremont and Charles Preuss:
Preuss: Feb 13, 1843:
"Today the 'field marshal' marched out with a party on
snowshoes to open up a way to the summit, about ten miles
distant, it appears. Tomorrow we shall probably know whether it
is possible to get through. No longer any salt in camp. This is
awful ... We are now completely snowed in. The snowstorm is
on top of us. The wind obliterates all tracks which, with
indescribable effort, we make for our horses. At the moment no
one can tell what will really happen. It is certain that we shall
have to eat horse meat. I should not mind if we only had salt."
Fremont: Feb 14, 1844:
"With Mr. Preuss, I ascended today the highest peak to the right:
from which we had a beautiful view of a mountain lake at our
feet, about fifteen miles in length, and so entirely surrounded by
mountains that we could not discover an outlet."
"From the immediate foot of the peak we were two hours in
reaching the summit, and one hour and a quarter in descending.
The day had been very bright, still, and clear, and spring seems
to be advancing rapidly. While the sun is in the sky, the snow
melts rapidly, and gushing springs cover the mountain in all
exposed places; but their surface freezes instantly with the
disappearance of the sun."
Illustration is on the World Wide Web at
http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/MultiMedia/redlake.gif
- Aaron Schuman
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ I always bring a little bit of liquor on an +
+ expedition in case the opportunity comes up +
+ that I can make a toast, and the Sherpas +
+ assure me that Buddha likes Jack Daniels +
+ -- Sandy Hill Pittman +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
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Unofficial (Private) Trips
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Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor,
but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra
Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to
PCS members, not because they are endorsed by the PCS.
*** Avalanche Pass Area
Peaks: Palmer Mtn (11,250'), Sphinx Crest (11,256')
Maps: Marion Pk, Mt Whitney 15 min quads
Dates: June 8-9 Sat-Sun
Contact: Siamak Navid H 415-361-8548 W 408-553-3850 sia@vid.hp.com
The plan is to go up Sphinx Creek trail in Cedar Grove and
try the peaks around Avalanche Pass. Possibilities are
Palmer Mtn and Sphinx Crest. NOTE: These peaks are
not in the guidebooks and are not classified, so there is a
good chance that they are harder than we expect. We will
not attempt anything harder than class 3.
*** Celebrate Solstice on Mt. Williamson
Peak: Williamson (14,375'), Tyndall (14,018') class 3
Map: Mt Williamson 7.5 topo
Dates: June 21-23 Fri-Sun
Contact: Phyllis Olrich 415-322-0323 phylliso@forsythe.stanford.edu
This trip is full, but I am accepting names for the waiting list.
We'll hike up and over Shepherd Pass on Friday to camp
in the Williamson Bowl. This will give us all day Saturday
to navigate our way up the "confusing maze of chutes"
that make up the Bolton Brown Route. Sunday we hike
out with an optional climb of Tyndall on the way. This will
be a long, gruelling trip, but should prove very rewarding if
we make the summit of this, the second highest peak in
the Sierras. Permit for 6 received.
*** Williamson Rescheduled
Peak: Williamson (14,375') class 3
Map: Mt Williamson 7.5 topo
Dates: June 21-23 Fri-Sun
Contact: Tony Cruz 408-944-2003 CRUZ@idt.com
This time I intend to try Williamson via the Bolton Brown
route over Shepherd Pass. (My plan is to continue
scheduling Spring trips up George Creek until I make
Williamson via this route, so look for my notice next
Spring.) This will be a LONG hike and it is technically more
difficult than the George Creek route. The route is class 2
except for an exposed 75 foot section of class 3 near the
summit.
It is possible for the energetic to bag two 14ers on this trip,
since Mt. Tyndall will be nearby (however my main
objective is Williamson, since I already bagged Tyndall).
There is an exposed class 2 route on Tyndall near
Shepherd pass and there are several tougher routes on
the mountain.
There is a separate group of six PCS'ers which also plans
to climb Williamson during the same weekend, but we will
not be part of this group.
*** The Killer Kaweah Trip
Peaks: Triple Divide, 3 Kaweahs,etc snow/class 4
Dates: June 29 - July 7 (9 days) Sat-Sun
Contact: Bob Suzuki (before 8pm) H 408-259-0772 W 510-657-7555 Bsuzuki@aol.com
This nine day backpack/peak climbing trip will start from
Wolverton in western Sequoia National Park. We'll take
two days to hike past Hamilton Lakes, over Kaweah Gap,
and setup basecamp in Nine Lake Basin. Five days of
peak climbing are then planned - our goals will include
Eagle Scout, Stewart, Lion Rock, Triple Divide and the
three Kaweahs (elevations ranging from 12,000' - 13,800').
There is one space remaining on a permit for four. Please
contact me if interested, but only strong and experienced
peak climbers will be considered.
*** U-Notch To North Palisade
Peak: North Palisade (14,242') class 5
Dates: July 4-7 Thur-Sun
Contact: Peter Maxwell 408-737 9770
Secor describes this as "THE classic peak of the High
Sierra. It is striking from a distance, and it has routes that
will challenge climbers of all abilities and preferences." We
will take the U-notch route from the east, involving a 700'
40-degree snow/ice climb. This will be a difficult climb, and
suitable for experienced climbers only. The number of
people on the trip will be contingent on class 5 leaders
being available.
*** Darwin, Evolution Region
Peaks: Darwin and others (13,000+) class 3
Trailhead: North Lake, with car shuttle to Bishop Pass.
Dates: July 4-7 Thur-Sun
Contact: Chris Kramar W 415-926-6861
Cross country over Lamarck Col into one one of the most
famous and popular areas in the Sierra Nevada. Walter
Starr Jr. wrote that the Evolution country was "the region
where the grand crescendo of the Sierra touches at once
the heart of the mountaineer and the artist." We will travel
through Evolution Canyon to Muir pass and out Bishop
Pass in four days, catching Darwin and other peaks along
the way. Possible peaks include Goddard, Black Giant,
Scylla, Charybdis and others. To reserve a spot, send $3
(permit fee) and contact information (name, address,
phone etc.) to 4302 Ribera St., Fremont, CA 94536
*** Julius Caesar
Peak: Mt. Julius Caesar (13,196') class 3
Maps: Mt. Hilgard, Mt. Tom topos
Dates: July 20-21 Sat-Sun
Contact: Debbie Benham H 415-964-0558
Co-Contact: Phyllis Olrich H 415-322-0323 phylliso@forsythe.stanford.edu
Et tu, Bruts? Join us for a lively, mid-summer climb over
Italy Pass. We'll ascend via the west ridge which Roper
calls a "Classic Class 3". Permit for 8.
*** Great Western & Kings-Kern Divides
Peaks: Ericsson, Stanford, Table, Midway, etc.
Maps: Mt Brewer and Sphinx Lakes quads
Dates: July 20-27 Sat-Sat
Contact: Andrew Hassell 415-493-3342 hassella@math.Stanford.EDU
Unofficial trip to the the heart of King's Canyon and
Sequoia National Parks, July 20-27. Eight day
backpacking and peak climbing (class 3 max) trip starting
from Bubb's Creek on the western side. We will climb
some of the following: Mt Ericsson (13608 ft), Mt Stanford
(13963 ft), Table Mtn (13630 ft), Midway Mtn (13666 ft),
Milestone Mtn (13641 ft) and Triple Divide Peak (12634 ft).
*** Great Western and Kings-Kern Divide Climb-o-Rama
Peaks: Milestone, etc, etc class 3 & 4 - 13,000'+
Dates: July 27 - Aug 4 Sat-Sun (week)
Contact: Kelly Maas 408-279-2054 maas@idt.com
After slogging over Shepherd Pass, we'll spend a week
climbing the 13000' peaks at the headwaters of the Kern
River. Priority peaks include Milestone, Table, Thunder and
Midway. We'll fit in as many more as we can, chosing from
Genvra, Jordan, Ericsson, Stanford, etc. Most peaks are class
3, but some are class 2, and some have class 4 summit
blocks. My earlier announcement was only a survey, but
showed that this trip will be over-subscribed. Contact me if
interested, even if you did so earlier. Note that Andrew Hassell
also has a trip to approx the same area.
*** Advance Schedule
Please do not contact the leaders to sign up for trips listed
here. Leaders are asked not to accept signups until the
trip is formally announced with OFFICIAL/PRIVATE TRIP
designation from the PCS Scheduler. Trips in the next
month should be announced already, and this list covers
un-announced trips for a few more months to help you
plan ahead. If you are planning a trip, if you change your
trip, or if you can't get a permit, please contact the Editor
to keep this list up to date. Names will be listed unless you
request that only the peak be listed:
JULY
4-7 Red & Black Kaweah Paul Magliocco
27-28 Mills and Abbot John Ingvoldstad
AUGUST
17-18 Russell John Ingvoldstad
17-19 Darwin & Mendel Bob Suzuki & Charles Schafer
22-25 Devils Crags & Wheel Cecil and Paul Magliocco
29-2 Thunder, Deerhorn, etc Cecil Magliocco & David Ress
31-2 Gabb/Hilgard Peter Maxwell
31-2 Mokelumne River Canyon John Ingvolstad
SEPTEMBER
7-8 Tuolumne Meadows car camp Magliocco & Schuman
14-15 Dana Couloir (ice) George Van Gorden
13-15 Clarence King Charles Schafer
20-22 Whitney Portal Area (TBD) Debbie Benham
20-22 Whorl & Virginia Bob Suzuki & Debbie Bulger
21-22 Convict Car Camp (Morrrison & Laurel) (name withheld)
27-29 Vandever, Florence, Sawtooth Aaron Schuman
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ The wild places are where we began. +
+ When they end, so do we. +
+ -- David Brower +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
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How to Submit Trips to the Scree (please clip and save)
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Just a reminder from the Scree Editor.... If you want to announce
a climb in any issue of the Scree/EScree, you need to decide if it
will be an official Sierra Club PCS trip or a private trip without
Club insurance. If it's private, you can just send email to the
Scree editor (me) at .
If it's a PCS trip, you must send a letter or call the PCS Trip
Scheduler as follows:
Roger Crawley 415-321-8602
761 Nash Avenue, Menlo Park CA 94025
If you send me the text of your trip announcement in parallel
with sending it to Roger, there will be less errors (like Kai's
recent announcement) and I will be happy. However you send in
the trip announcement, make sure it's complete!
Look at an old Scree for the format of the announcement, and
follow it as closely as possible. Include the peak name(s),
elevations, dates, topo maps, rock/snow classification, leader's
name and contact info, plus a writeup that will convince people
to sign up. Indicate the level of experience required, and the
group size you will allow, or anything else you think will help
your trip work out. Remember that not everyone knows even the
basic area where a specific peak is.
Include your phone or email or mailing address... and expect
people to use that information (don't send your phone number if
you don't want calls, and don't expect me to dig it out of the
roster if you don't include it with your announcement).
There will often be an "advanced trip schedule" in the Scree,
with trips that are planned but not yet announced. Contact me to
include your trip in this list. Names of the leaders will be
included in the advance listing unless you request otherwise.
This listing is supposed to help avoid scheduling conflicts, NOT
to allow people to sign up way in advance.
Some leaders collect deposits while others refuse advance
signups in an effort to reduce cancellations, and others select
trip participants without regard to who calls first. Leaders
should indicate their procedures unless it is first-come-first-
served, and participants should ask if it is not indicated on the
formal announcement.
If your formal trip announcement is really long, it may be edited
down! Also, long announcements are almost always shortened
after the first time they run... so you might want to submit a long
and a short version of the announcement to minimize the amount
of arbitrary editing. There is not time to contact each leader for
approval of the edits. Count the words from other
announcements if you have doubts about the length of yours.
(the reason for this article is that Bob Gross intended for people
to call his answering machine and leave their mailing address so
he could send a packet of info before signing you up for his
Shasta trip - something that totally escaped the recent Scree
announcement, which just showed phone and email info but not
the procedure for getting the info packet)
- Editor
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Homeric Odyssey (the nose that launched a thousand trips)
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One scalding hot April day in 1872, in the valley of the South
Fork of the Kaweah River, surveyor John Orst turned to pioneer
John Homer and bellowed, "Hey Homer! Yonder crag looks jest
like yore nose!" Orst's jibe endured. Because the granite dome
in the Kaweah bears the whimsical name "Homer's Nose", we
decided to climb it one scalding hot April day in 1996. There
couldn't have been any other reason. If it were named "Bald
Dome" or "Rounded Knob" we surely would have gone
somewhere else.
Our approach was on a trail that had been abandoned by the
Park Service decades ago. It has not appeared on any map
printed since 1955, but we were using the 1955 USGS
quadrangle. Our guidebook, Self Propelled in the Southern
Sierra, referred to it as an abandoned trail, and the author, Peter
Jenkins, died during the 1970s.
Since it was only April, we were equipped with snowshoes,
poles, crampons, and ice axes. We would have been better
served by brush saws, hedge clippers, and forestry gear. The
combination of a low trailhead, the location at the southern flank
of the range, and a south facing exposure, meant that we hardly
saw any snow at all. We did see two tremendous thickets;
ceanothus and poison oak up to 5000 feet, and manzanita up to
6500 feet.
We set out from the Clough Cave campground (only 3670 feet)
at the end of South Fork Road, out of the town of Three Rivers.
Our first quarter mile was on the well maintained Ladybug
Trail. We crossed the rushing South Fork of the Kaweah River
on a sturdy bridge. If you decide to follow our footsteps, you'll
benefit from knowing a few features that we missed. The turn
off from Ladybug onto the overgrown Pigeon Creek trail is at
4010 feet, just beyond some prominent rocks. After battling the
brush up to the ridge to the west of Pigeon Creek, it is easy to
lose the trail at 5890 feet. The trail doesn't follow the ridge at
all, but crosses it immediately, and traverses Burnt Canyon to a
notch below Palmer Cave. Burnt Canyon is aptly named. It
looks like it burns about once a decade, and gives rise to a lush,
dense growth of manzanita. Crossing it on the trail is beastly,
but crossing it off the trail is hell.
Jenkins described Creekside Surprise Camp as being an
unexpected, lovely, broad, flat area where the trail crosses
Bennett Creek. The surprise was that the campsite had been
buried under a log jam during a flood. We found a small, not-
so-flat site downstream. In spite of its size, it was a pleasant
place with a waterfall and a deep soft bed of pine duff. We had
expected to set up our tents on top of snow.
At dawn we headed for the peak. We quickly climbed up Salt
Creek Ridge, out of the brush and into an open forest of
Ponderosa and White pines. At 7800 feet we finally encountered
snow. All of our snow gear but the ice axes were left at camp,
but the ice axes were all we needed. All eight of us reached the
9050 foot summit. It's an infrequently climbed peak. Imagine
that! The last party had signed the summit register two years
ago. We only saw the names of two PCS mountaineers in the
book - Bill Rausch, more than 25 years ago, and Chris Yager,
who will climb anything that stands still.
We returned to Bennett Creek, broke camp, battled the
manzanita, crawled like rabbits under the pollen laden
ceanothus, and reached the trailhead before 6 pm. We washed
off the grime in the Kaweah River. Now I can call the water
chilly, but at the time we employed more ardent adjectives.
It was a trip of Firsts and Mosts: the first time we hiked in
poison oak in the Sierra Nevada, our lowest trailhead, the
densest brush, the warmest night, the softest bed, the rarest
destination. Our party consisted of Steve Eckert (leader), Bob
Suzuki (co-leader), Martina Faller, Suzanne Remien, Alex
Keith, Dave Harris, Arun Mahajan, and your occasionally
truthful reporter, Aaron Schuman.
- Aaron Schuman
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Booby Traps?
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A message originally to Rock Rendezvous (a north bay climbing
group), forwarded by Butch Suits. Climb at your own risk, and
check those anchors!
From: Doug Ward on Sun, May 19, 1996 1:15 PM
Subject: St Helena
Some disturbing observations at the Bubble in St.
Helena from Puntalejos@aol.com. Be careful out
there!
I wanted to let Rock Rendevous know about some
disturbing events that occurred yesterday while
climbing at Mt. St. Helena. There was a cable
attached to two bolts that seemed to be set up
for a rap station. There was a 3/8" or so cable,
two new metolius bolts, the cable had a coating -
rubber, or electrical tape on the downhill side.
I assumed that the coating was to let the rope
slide through more easily for rope retreival
after rappelling.
It turns out that the coating was the only thing
holding the cable together. It held light tension
while I was looking over the edge to check out
the rappell route, but FAILED when I and my
partner were tension-traversing to a lower
rappell point - near a tree and above a route
where I wanted to retreive some of my gear.
If we had rappelled from that point it is certain
that at least one of us would have either died or
been seriously injured - a 100' foot drop.
At the tree there was a sling so placed as to
look secure from above, but merely wedged into
the dirt and roots. If clipped into from below
this sling would have looked secure and would
have held on for tugging-tests, but would not
have held a rappell or even a second's TR fall.
Am I crazy? I've never seen anything like either
of these things in 10 years of climbing, and I
have never come so close to dying.
Have you heard of such things happening
elsewhere? Perhaps, It would be good to warn Rock
Rendevous members especially as Mt. St. Helena is
a close-by crag.
-- Puntalejos@AOL.co
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THE BACK PAGE
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Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing
Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.
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Elected Officials
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Chair:
Charles Schafer / charles.schafer@octel.com
408-354-1545 home, 408-324-6003 work
115 Spring Street, Los Gatos CA 95032-6229
Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
Roger Crawley
415-321-8602 home
761 Nash Avenue, Menlo Park CA 94025-2719
Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
Jim Ramaker / ramaker@vnet.ibm.com
408-224-8553 home, 408-463-4873 work,
188 Sunwood Meadows Place, San Jose CA 95119-1350
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Appointed Positions
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Scree Editor, Email Broadcast Operator:
Steve Eckert / eckert@netcom.com
415-508-0500 home/work, 415-508-0501 fax
1814 Oak Knoll Drive, Belmont, CA 94002-1753
PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
Aaron Schuman / schuman@sgi.com
415-933-1901, http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/index.html
223 Horizon Avenue, Mountain View CA 94043-4718
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Hardcopy subscriptions are $10/year, plus a requested donation of $2/year
to cover operating expenses. Subscription applications and checks payable
to "PCS" should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before the last
Tuesday of the expiration month.
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If you are on the PCS email broadcast, you have a free EScree subscription.
For broadcast info, send Email to with the one-line
message "INFO sc- peaks". EScree-only subscribers should send a subscription
form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge, and are
encouraged to donate $2/year to the PCS.
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Rock Climbing Classifications
The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing
trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can
anticipate all possible conditions.
Class 1: Walking on a trail.
Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing. A rope may be used.
Class 4: Requires rope belays.
Class 5: Technical rock climbing.
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In Upcoming Issues:
(if you sent something that is not here, please send it again)
At Rest Above the Atacama (death on Ojos del Salado)
Trip Reports: Monarch Divide, Matterhorn
World's 60 Highest Mountains
Searching for Small Worlds to Conquer
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Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 6/23/96.
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.
This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
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And finally, back by popular demand: "Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe
(End of June 1996 EScree)