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This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
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This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
April, 2000 Vol. 34 No. 4
Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 4/23/2000
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This issue of Scree will be on the Official PCS Website at
http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/scree
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Next general meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)
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Date: Tuesday, April 11
Time: 8:00 PM
Program: Ice Climbing by Ron Karpel
Ice climbing is one of the least understood extensions
of mountaineering. Why would someone search for a
patch of vertical ice? Come and see, and maybe you
will get hooked too. See pictures of Ron Karpel and
Rick Booth ice climbing in Colorado and California.
We can also talk about some of the techniques and
the tools of the trade.
Directions: 2344 El Camino Real, Santa
Clara (between San Thomas and Los Padres).
(PDF version has a drawn map here)
From 101: Exit at San Thomas Expressway, Go
South to El Camino Real. Turn left and the Western
Mountaineering will be immediately to your right.
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Jules M. Eichorn 1912-2000
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After 88 years of enjoying the beauties of the Sierra Nevada
range and the delights of Bach, Beethoven and Brahms, Jules
Marquard Eichorn died peacefully at home in his sleep, Tuesday,
February 15, 2000. He was born February 7,1912, to Hilmar and
Frieda Eichorn, both German immigrants. Though frail and often
sick in his childhood, he learned to enjoy walking on Mt.
Tamalpais in Marin County on Sundays with his parents and
brother, John Peter and sister, Eleanor. His parents also strongly
encouraged his clear musical talent; at an early age he studied
violin at the San Francisco Community Music School under the
tutelage of Gertrude Field, his future teaching mentor. His first
piano teacher was Ansel Adams, of future photography fame;
Jules was his first pupil. Their friendship was to last a lifetime.
Ansel also introduced Jules to the high Sierra through the 1927
Annual Outing, ascending Alta Peak, Jules' first mountain climb
at the age of 15. To continue to pay for his piano lessons from
Ansel, Jules washed prints in the Adams's family bathtub.
In 1929, Jules graduated from Lick-Wilmerding High School in
San Francisco and continued to teach piano at the Community
School for 50 cents a lesson. Then his amazing life as a pioneer
rock climber began, first in the summer of 1930 in the Tetons and
after much practice climbing in Berkeley, California, the Sierra
Nevada with its many unclimbed peaks. In 1931 he made the
first ascent of the 2400' East Face of Mt. Whitney, then
Thunderbolt Peak in a frightening lightening storm, then
numerous ascents in the Minaret range, one later to be named
Eichorn Minaret. However, the climb for which he is most
famous is the 1934 ascent of the Higher Cathedral Spire in
Yosemite with Dick Leonard and Bestor Robinson. Here, for the
first time, rope, pitons, carabiners, and dynamic belays were used
to ascend this 700' granite needle. The climb signaled the
beginning of all future high-angle, big wall climbing in North
America. In 1934 he helped locate the body of Walter Starr, Jr.
(Pete Starr), the writer-pioneer killed climbing alone in the
Minarets. For his efforts, Walter Starr Sr. provided Jules with a
scholarship to U.C, Berkeley. In the early 1940s he trained the
National Park Service rangers in Yosemite to rescue injured or
stranded rock climbers. After W.W.II, he took groups of teenage
boys into the High Sierra on mountaineering adventures with the
greatest mountain man of his time, Norman Clyde.
His music life paralleled his mountain life. In 1934, he entered
U.C. Berkeley and in 1938 graduated with a degree and
credential in music. For the next 35 years, he taught
instrumental, orchestral and choral music in the Hillsborough
Schools District, near San Mateo. His students remember him as
a particularly gifted teacher.
Jules married Sarah Beckman in 1937, and they had six children.
Divorced in 1957, he married Kay Calderhead in 1960; they had
a child and Kay's daughter by a former marriage joined the
household. That marriage dissolved in 1973. In 1982 he married
Shirley Lhyne, who with her three children, remained with him
until his death.
He continued to walk in the Sierra until the 1980s when he
turned his full attention to environmental conservation. His
concern, like those around him, was that wild places should be
forever preserved for the enjoyment of future generations. With
that agenda, he was elected for eight years as a Director of the
Sierra Club. He was a tireless worker to create and enlarge new
and existing parks, both local and national.
He worked to elect environmentally friendly candidates including
Tom Lantos, Byron Sher, Arlen Gregorio and Malcolm Dudley.
At public hearings his presence created an aura of depth and
purpose. The conservation community will sorely miss him.
He will be remembered fondly by his wife of 18 years, Shirley
Lhyne-Eichorn and by eleven children and step children: David
H. Eichorn, Gertrude W. Dixon, Julia A. Osborn-Gourley, John
W. Eichorn, Hilmar M Eichorn, Peter M. Eichorn, Linda F.
Renfro, Cara L. Eichorn-Osos, Robinie Lhyne-Alinejad, Peter L.
Lhyne, and Anders Erik Lhyne. Also surviving him are 18
grandchildren, ten great grandchildren, nephew Tom Manning
and the children of his brother, John Peter Eichorn.
His gift to the world was his great love of the mountains and
music and an extraordinary ability to share these with those
around him. "Music and the mountains; they're the greatest," he
liked to say.
On March 18 at 3:00 PM, a memorial music service will be held
at the Unitarian Universalist Fellowship, 2124 Brewster Ave.,
Redwood City. A second mountaineering memorial will be held
May 20 at the Eichorn Memorial Grove in Big Basin State Park
at noon. Please call 510-524-9473 for directions. Contributions
in his name may be made to the following: Hidden Villa, 26879
Moody Rd., Los Altos Hills, CA 94022; Sempervirens Fund,
Drawer BE, Los Altos, CA 94023; Unitarian Universalist Service
Committee, 130 Prospect St., Cambridge, MA, 02139.
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Wilderness First Aid
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This is a great 20-hour class for those who are looking to
experience practicing wilderness first aid skills in an outdoor
setting. In addition to a half day of outdoor scenario practice of
first aid and leadership skills, this class focuses on practicing
skills and covers wilderness standard first aid topics: patient
assessment, shock and bleeding, head and spinal injuries,
wounds, musculoskeletal injuries, heat and cold illnesses and
much more. Red Cross Standard First Aid and Adult CPR
certification are available upon successful completion of this
course. OU's Wilderness First Aid certification is available upon
successful completion of the course and passing a take-home
wilderness exam. There are pre-class reading assignments. (If
you are current in Adult CPR or Standard First Aid, contact
Bobbie Foster about your options and costs)
Pre-requisites: None
Classroom Session: April 11, 6-10pm
Weekend Session: April 15-16, 8am-5pm
Cost: $71- Volunteer Outdoor Leaders for nonprofit groups
$100 - General Public
Sign-up Now - Sign-ups are already in progress. Call 415/476-
5244 for registration information.
Call Bobbie Foster at 415/476-0417 for any questions about the
class or Outdoors Unlimited's First Aid Program.
Outdoors Unlimited at www.outdoors.ucsf.edu/ou
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Evacuation and Search and Rescue Seminar
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Sponsored by Outdoors Unlimited and BAMRU
Someone is seriously injured in the backcountry and you need to
get them to the hospital. This free workshop will help you better
understand your evacuation options so you can be better prepared
and can make a good decision on how to get your patient to the
hospital. The Bay Area Mountain Rescue Unit (BAMRU) will
facilitate this workshop.
Find out how BAMRU can help you and what they need from the
rescuers in order to pull off a successful rescue.
Prerequisites: None
Cost: Free
Date and Time: April 20, 7-9pm
Location: UCSF Campus - SF
For More Information and Room Location
Call Bobbie Foster
First Aid Program Coordinator
Outdoors Unlimited
UCSF Campus
415-476-0417 - ext 1.
Future Seminars
First Aid Kits Seminar May 2 Free
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Scenario Play Day May 13 costs between $10 15
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Prerequisites: Taken a wilderness first aid class (from 8hr on up)
in thelast 4 years.
-- Kelly Mass
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PCS Leadership Clinic
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The PCS Mountaineering Committee is organizing a leadership
clinic for Sunday May 7. The motivation is to help our leaders be
the best they can be, and to ensure that our trips are well led and
safe. All PCS leaders are urged to attend, but it is also open to
aspiring leaders, and to everyone in the PCS or other sections.
The event is being organized as a combined clinic and day hike
and will run most of the day. We will alternate hiking with sit-
down sessions where various topics will be discussed. Total
hiking distance will be 8 to 10 miles. We aim to discuss all
aspects of trip leadership, from basic planning and organizing to
safety and dealing with people and emergency situations. We
especially want to share lessons learned from experience.
For those wanting to do advance reading, the following books are
recommended:
"Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills" - chapters on leadership,
safety,etc.
"Outdoor Leadership: Technique, Common Sense & Self-
Confidence" by John Graham
The clinic will be at Sunol Regional Park, Sunday May 7 from
9:00 am to 6:00 pm. Please call or email for more details on
where to meet.
Kelly Maas (408) 378-5311, maas@idt.com
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PCS Trips
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PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back
cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be
listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.
*** Mt Diablo
Peak: Mt. Diablo (3,849')
Date: April 1, 2000
Leader: Bob Suzuki rsuzuki@dspt.com H: 408-259-0772
Co-leader: Rex Jennett datsrex@netzero.net H: 650-961-1618
Description: Bag this desirable peak and enjoy a 17 mile loop and
panoramic views in this East Bay park. Wear boots if trails are
muddy. Heavy rain cancels.
Co-listed with the Day Hiking Section. Carpool Time: 7:00 AM,
Carpool Location: Cubberly High (Middlefield & Montrose) in Palo
Alto Time at Trail head: 8:00 AM Trail head location: Macedo
Ranch at end of Green Valley Road in Danville
*** Rock Climbing Practice
Dates: Tue. April 4th (evening session), Sat. April 8th
(practice), Sat. April 15th (backup date)
Leaders: Ron Karpel, Kelly Maas, Rick Booth
Contact: Ron Karpel, email: ronny@karpel.org (W)510-771-3231
This is a restricted outing of the Sierra Club. To participate, you
must be a Sierra Club Member. Participants must be experience
on class 3 terrain and will be required to use a helmet.
Our practice will emphasize safe rock climbing using rock climbing
gear. The goal is to cover the kind of rock climbing situations one
might encounter during mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada. We
will practice climbing rock routes of class-4 and easy class-5 (up
to about 5.4) levels. Participants will train in general use of ropes,
tying knots, using harnesses, using protections devices, setting
anchors, using slings and biners, providing belay to leaders top
rope belay to followers, tying in to a belay station, using belay
devices, and practice rappelling. We do not intend to train in
leading rock climbing.
The theory session will take place in a suitable location in the Bay
Area (the Peninsula Conservation Center is one option). The
practice itself will take place in the Pinnacles National Monument.
*** Spinach Noodle
Peaks: Spanish Needle, class 3, 7841, Sawtooth Peak (S), class 2, 7970
Dates: Apr 08-09, 2000 (Sat-Sun)
Maps: Lamont, Nine Mile Canyon
Leader: Aaron Schuman, H 650-968-9184 W 650-943-7532, aaron_schuman@yahoo.com
Details: http://sj.znet.com/~cynthiam/needle.html
Way off in the driest corner of the Sierra Nevada there's a
subrange of mountains that's covered with junipers and
jackrabbits, and it sports some right purty desert vistas: we're
aimin to go there. Join us for the long Saturday hike to Spanish
Needle, the Sunday hike to Sawtooth Peak, or for both days.
We'll approach Spanish Needle from 4500 foot Rodecker Flat, not
from the usual direction, for extra adventure and as a test of
stamina. 14 miles, 3300 vertical feet. Sunday, we'll sprint up
Sawtooth Peak, only 6 miles round trip and 2600 feet.
*** Leadership Clinic/Hike
Date: Sun, May 7
Leader: Kelly Maas, 408-378-5311, kelly.maas@idt.com
Kelly Mass will lead a leadership training hike. See write-up.
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A Dome Too Far - Sentinel Dome - March 3-5
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Trip members: Harlan Suits, Roy Lambertson, Chris Kerr, John Langbein, Karen Davis.
Sometimes when you put maps side to side, you see ski
destinations that you would otherwise miss. Sentinel Dome, for
example--not the well-known formation near Yosemite Valley but
the remote overlook of King's Canyon in the southern Sierra.
To reach the Sentinel, we planned to ski north from Lodgepole
about 15 miles through hilly, forested terrain. On the eve of the
trip, we knew the going would be hard: storms had dropped lots
of new snow and our two best trailbreakers had dropped out.
There was also a "chance of showers" after the first day.
Friday morning we drove up through the drizzly lowland clouds
into brilliant sunshine and a redwood wonderland draped with
snow. "Up here 'chance of showers' usually means 10 inches of
snow," said the ranger at Lodgepole before we embarked. I
chalked up her warning to Park Service conservatism.
At that time we had already lost an hour due to construction
delays on the road.
Memo to self: inspect ski equipment before each trip. At the
trailhead I noticed one of my skis' metal edges was broken with
two cracks extending up toward the top of the ski. Would the ski
last the trip? I would have to risk it, and be prepared to remount
my binding if the ski snapped in two.
Our slow start became slower. We had trouble finding the bridge
over the river under the deep mantle of snow. At first we chose
the wrong direction to search--downstream instead of upstream.
After crossing, we lost the trail on the other side, skinning
laboriously up through steep, hummocky forest before we found it
again. Dimly I remembered making both of these route-finding
errors on my last visit to this area many years ago!
On the trail, snowshoe tracks provided welcome relief from
trailbreaking. But we found the trailmakers only 1-1/2 miles from
the trailhead, just stirring from their tent. From this point the trail
turns north and is difficult to follow when under snow; it is
unmarked and the trees are often not dense enough to indicate a
trail corridor. We soon lost the trail and tramped a serpentine
course through the interlocking tree wells of closely spaced trees.
It was high time for a trail-breaking god to surge forward and
push the pace, I thought. Our party included several trail-
breaking heroes of yesteryear, but we seemed to have lost our
spark. Age, injury, raising families-many excuses came to mind
but were best left unsaid.
The one aid to navigating by compass was that the route went due
north or at times magnetic north. We stumbled on a trail corridor
and made better time. But soon the warm, sunny weather created
a devious side effect: melting snow soaked our ski bottoms and
climbing skins, and the powder underneath stuck to our skis like
glue. Meanwhile, big snow bombs melted off the trees, leaving
craters beneath. We skied on slowly but unscathed.
Near Cahoon Pass we glimpsed cloud-filled valleys to the south
through the trees and Kettle Peak to the north. We were on route.
After plodding through woods all day, our reward was a lovely
ridgetop campsite just south of JO Pass, with a cloud carpet
below and a beautiful sunset brewing above. We had skied 7
miles in about 7 hours.
The evening was uneventful until John sniffed in the direction of
our tent and exclaimed, "something's burning!" In fact, my tent
group conducted two combustion experiments that evening. First,
I determined that supergaitors do indeed burn when they drape
against the stove burner--but without flame. Later, Roy
discovered that foil food pouches, rather than insulate the stove
from the snow, burn with a hot, tenacious flame, even when
tossed out onto the snow.
After a windy night our layover day dawned fair. From camp, the
ski to sentinel Dome appeared to be more than 8 miles each way.
Success seemed unlikely with the current snow conditions
(breakable crust overlaying powder), but we headed out to see
what we could see--and ski what we could ski. We cruised along
at first, then the crust melted and we had sticky snow again. We
skirted Kettle Peak, descending a steep 500-foot slope of heavy
powder from its western shoulder. A sea of clouds still covered
the Central Valley to the west. To the east, the snowy giants of
the Great Western Divide came into view. To the north, Mitchell
Peak (10,000 ft+) was the tallest thing in sight--a worthy goal for
the day's outing.
Our slow progress put even this objective in doubt, however. At
2:00 we were at the base, with an 800-foot climb remaining. Roy
and I were tired, but summit fever befuddled our higher brain
functions. We plodded upward, knowing we would not return to
camp until after dark. The others turned back.
The slog was worth it. At 3:00 we approached the summit and a
grand snowy panorama spread in all directions, spanning two-
thirds of the horizon: to the north the wall of King's Canyon,
including Spanish Mountain and the Monarch Divide; to the east
the Great Western Divide; to the southeast, Mt. Silliman and
environs. The forested ridge to Sentinel Dome undulated further
north, descending gradually toward the great chasm. It looked
like a long haul, and it was hard to imagine that it provided a
better view.
The descent was challenging. Breakable crust that had softened
somewhat during the day was refreezing. Then the long, zombie
plod home. Night fell as we ascended Kettle's west ridge. We
arrived back at the tents at 7:45, the deep ski tracks a foolproof
aid to navigation. Our tentmate, Chris, had food waiting for us,
bless her heart.
The next morning, dry snow slithered off our nylon tent fly. It was
snowing. We had been planning to ski Kettle Peak--so
tantalizingly close--before we skied out. Now there was no point,
and my sore muscles celebrated the respite. Still, we had to ski
out several miles of difficult terrain in the storm--hopefully
before the snow filled in our tracks.
We packed up and headed down. The powder was now about 6
inches deep. Better than nothing, but not deep enough to negate
the breakable crust underneath. All of us took falls on the steeper,
heavily forested slopes, but we made steady progress. The wind
and temperature of the storm were not excessive, and we were
able to follow our tracks the whole way, saving time otherwise
spent stopping, consulting map and compass, and scratching one's
head.
As during our approach, snow bombs fell from the trees, but
these were powder bombs that created mini-whiteouts. Damp, we
reached the cars at 1:45. The snow level extended down to 4000
feet, creating a wonderland of white-etched scrub pine and
chapparal on the drive down to the Kaweah River. The ranger
was right: "chance of showers"in Sequoiah does mean about 10
inches of new snow.
-- Harlan Suits
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Picacho del Diablo
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The mountain is Picacho del Diablo, also known as Big Picacho
or Big P. It is a twin summit at 3095m (N) and 3094m (S).
Elevation gain is 2505m (8218'), 10 map miles. But the elevation
gained and the mileage walked should be increased by at least
20% due to all the devious routing around the obstacles.
After a lot of dithering and reading Sierra club reports at
http://www.angeles.sierraclub.org/dps/archives and getting good
advice from Rudolfo from the high-altitude list, I decided that
this climb sounded like a fun trip to get away from the usual
Colorado winter trips. Most of the trip reports were from the
southern California climbers using a route from the West with
access from Observatory Road. But I liked the easier drive from
the East (from Colorado) and I knew I could have a relaxing place
and a safe place to store my vehicle near San Felipe at a camp
called Pete's. I noticed the tall mountains while on vacation in
March 1999. I set out alone in my truck to head south on March
6, 2000 . While at a layover in the Phoenix area I studied the
weather and decided to abort again. But by March 15 the jet
stream had shifted north. The snow line was 3500' on the coastal
range near the border. The trip was back on.
I found the trailhead easily between Diablito and Diablo Canyon
and found the well-marked trail. This TH start is in the desert at
590m. I identified Suhrago, Palo Verde and several varieties of
cacti, but no Cholla (a good sign for this desert rookie). This
desert vegetation is about 20 feet high indicating to me that there
is plenty of water nearby. Over my March11 through March16
climb I saw the foliage change from the above desert setting to
willows along the stream to scrub oak then juniper and beautiful
cedar trees then a new variety of pine I have not seen before.
Then up high there was more scrub oak and manzanita. In places
the cover was very dense and it made passage with my big pack
very testy. I saw cow tracks and deer tracks between the first
two waterfalls so I guess they come down the really steep hillside
for water. In places there had been much rainfall so the hiker path
was difficult to follow but one person had walked up the as far as
Campo Noche and back. To the pass the time I tracked him to
make the route finding easier. There were lizards and frogs
everywhere, scampering and leaping into the pools. Most lizards
were 6" long and skinny as a pencil. But several were king size.
The frogs were all the same color as the rocks whether light gray
or rust color. Lots of small birds chirping. It was an interesting
diversion. At my high camp (2280m) a Ringtail Cat who
thought I was very interesting examined me. It was a very pretty
animal. And at the TH after my climb I was awakened by a bunch
of Coyotes probably fighting over early morning food.
In preparing for the climb I had obtained the correct topos and
Jerry Schad's map/guide instructions from the Map Center in San
Diego mailed to my home in Colorado. The Mexican topos were
difficult but Mr. Schad has really got it together. The first day
started at Pete's Camp about 10:30AM. We arrived at the
trailhead at 12:30. The walk to the entrance waterfall took 1/2
hour on a well-flagged trail then up the stream bed. The entrance
waterfall is unclimbable (660m), 15-foot deep pool and a 5 to 10
foot waterfall. The rock is an aid climb. The previous climbers
have placed a ladder and 2 steel cables and a ladder to get the
climb started. You pendulum from the first cable to the ladder, up
the ladder down the other side into the creek bottom with the
other cable. OK without a pack but impossible with a 6 day pack.
I hauled the pack (not recommended). The correct way is to use a
prusik to hold you and the pack so you can get purchase with the
feet then walk to the ladder. On the return is even harder because
you have to run uphill from the ladder to a boulder, it took two
tries on the return and I really went hard the second time.
The second waterfall is harder. Schad says go left up a 20-foot
crack then up 10+ foot sketchy slab. It cannot be done with a
pack (for a normal hiker). I went up the right side until the
sketchy nubbins disappeared then frictioned up the rock. Then
hauled the pack (difficult). On the return I could not down climb
this route - too scary. 20 feet with no place to use my 60' rope. It
needs a rap bolt really bad. So I downclimbed the Schad route
without a pack. The moves were 5.2 or 3 with 20 feet of air. Not
good for a solo climber. No place of a rap anchor here either,
anyway my rope was hopelessly tangled in my pack down on the
creekbed. Everything goes wrong when you are trying to be ultra
careful. I was really concerned more than any time before.
Here is how I did the down climb without benefit of seeing it or
studying it from below. It is a wide crack starting down about 10'
on an OK slab with a narrow sloping ledge leading to the crack. I
could see two chock stones and several 3/8" edges for my feet. I
put one foot on the top stone and grabbed it with one hand and
did the classical lieback and moved that foot to the crack and let
it slide down to the next stone. All the time scratching for a foot
hold on the face of the rock with my free foot. Then repeat for the
second chock stone, foot and hand on the same stone lieback and
lower. One foot found a small bump and held. The other foot fit
the crack, I extended my arms and jumped the last 4 feet to a flat
surface. Sounds OK for a 5.7 lead climber the biggest problem
was the lower chock stone "WIGGLED", boy that gets your
attention.
I didn't get very far the first day, HA. After the second water fall
there is an uphill bypass through a dense briar patch. Really
tough going with my big pack. Then 15 to 30 minutes later is
another boulder problem I could not do with the pack but I
ducked a Class 3 difficulty bypass, but it has over 20 feet of air
(maybe it a Class IV). It is safe due to the very grippy places for
your feet, careful balance is required as there is no place for your
hands.
The rest of the approach just follows ducks but significant route
changes were always marked with a least at 2' high cairn. (Note a
duck is a one stone cairn?). Hikers place a round a 2" to 10" stone
on a big rock and you walk either where the duck is or beside the
big rock where the duck is. Its hard to make the classical cairn
with round streambed cobbles. I was surprised to find several
crawl throughs along the way. Very interesting.
At 1450m there is another big waterfall (15") with a friction slab.
I climbed up a short gully and stepped up onto the ledge system
above the slab and just walked across. 50' of vertical down the
slab to the pool of water if I screwed up. It was Class 2 difficulty
and I was not concerned. My way looked better than the smooth
slab.
After the water flow disappeared (1850m) it returned and I was
at Campo Noche (1900m). This place is identified by 2-3' high
cairns. Turn left (E) and find several large camp sites. I found the
duck and proceeded up Night Wash. The going was brushy and
the shady spots were full of snow. My method was to avoid the
snow but keep the ducks in sight. It worked OK but was difficult.
At the crossover to Slot Wash I left my pack and explored for a
campsite. Slot Wash was full of snow where one might pitch a
tent. So I made my high camp on the ridge at 2280m. It was a
short day (I stopped at 2PM) but I knew I could summit from
there and it would be easier with less weight in the pack.
The next morning I set off and the snow got really bad. I took my
axe but decided that the crampons were unnecessary (correct, as
they would never be necessary under any situation for this
mountain). Taking an axe on rock climbs is common for me. I use
it for aid when things get touchy. I bypassed a long section of the
wash on slabs on the left (N) side and the progress was excellent.
No marginal slabs were noted. I never saw the S summit gully but
found a big cairn on a large tree stump. I assumed it was the left
turn to Wall Street but not so, a right turn and some slabs are
next with a sketchy ledge and a tree-hug move. All this was easy
compared to the lower canyon problems.
I summited at 11:30AM on Tuesday March 14 and was back to
my camp at 2PM. The register is full and in the past year 30
parties and well over 100 persons have summited. They were
mostly from Ensenada, but a few others were noted from
Southern California, Arizona and Colorado. My Peru climbing
partner, Jim Rickard summited in June '99. When his report
becomes available I will post a URL. He was as impressed as I
was. I think only Jim and I summited from the East.
The views were great to the lake bed to the East. There are
several farms identified by large green squares on the East side of
the Diablo Lake. The air was still full of the sea haze to the West
and beyond the dry lake bed to the East. The observatory is a
prominent feature when looking NW across the huge Canyon del
Diablo.
The trip down from the summit left me with some scrapes but I
managed to avoid any falls even small ones. I had to make tracks
to meet my ride on Friday AM. I made the TH at 4PM Thursday
afternoon so all was well. My son picked my up about 10AM and
I headed for the showers and some good food at Pete's.
My evaluation of the climb: What a blast, walk for 5 minutes
boulder hopping in the creek bed, then do a class 3 boulder
problem. Day1 was 3 hours of marginal climbing, day 2 had 9
hours, day 3 had 7 hours, days 4 & 5 had 8 hours. A leisurely
pace is required due to the intense route finding. Two persons
would go much faster as the ducks would bed located much
faster.
Next time: I will take a bolt kit and place at least two rappel
bolts. The entrance fall ladder is getting much usage from the
locals and the rungs are showing serious weakness and splitting. I
would rather see an aid route placed so one could go from runner
to runner and just avoid the ladder all together. The obstacle goes
up vertical for about 15 feet then lays over all the time traversing
to the right.
If you do this climb here is my recommended gear:
At least a 60'X7mm climbing rope, 2-1.5'X6mm prusiks, 2-
4'X6mm prusiks, 4 caribiners, 1 locking caribiner, webbing to
make a diaper sling, An axe for winter months, Jerry Schad's map
"Parque Nacional San Pedro Martir". It had route descriptions
and an accurate topo. And last of all an altimeter which is easily
resettable to the landmarks on the Schad map.
Beta:
To the TH: Buy liability insurance for $56 per week, no visa
required.
Drive S on Mex 5 from Calixico/Mexicali to first Pete's Camp El
Paraiso for about 2 hours (120 miles or so). Then S past the
Crocodile sign on your right. Turn right on the paved road called
Saltito Rd or more commonly "Zoo Rd" At Morelia Junction keep
right. Again keep right at the earthen dike.
Don't get stuck in the sand there are several parallel roads.
Choose a well traveled one. After the cattle guard you are on the
lake bed. Follow tracks the don't sink in the mud. Stop on the
high ground in case the army wants to inspect you. Try not to stop
on the flat where it is soft. (GO fast). This route is a gun/drug
contraband route so be courteous to the army guys.
Pass two signs on the right for roads leading E to Providencia
Ranch. Pass an unreadable sign on the right. Turn left toward the
mountain at the buried tire. Drive the path to and through the
trees and though the ranch and keep right. I think this may be
Vallecitos' shack I was told about. (May be he will watch your
vehicle.) If you go straight, you will be at the mouth of Diablito
Canyon and an army camp. Following the right fork leads to a
large parking area and the beginning of the trail. Elevation 590m
N31deg 04.456, W115deg 21.90. You can plot this on Mexican
topo#HIIB45. The adjacent map shows a place called Santa Clara
but I cannot verify that it is the ranch above? All the canyon
labels on the these topos are incorrect. The Schad map shows a
shack at the mouth of Diablito Canyon. It does not exist unless it
is the ranch above.
Do NOT leave a vehicle at the trailhead on Saturday & Sunday as
there is much traffic from locals on the weekend days. There are
to many people who could cause mischief. Find a driver to drop
you off and collect you later.
Buy Schad's map and the topos from Map Center 888 849 6277
or 619 291 3830.
-- Paul Wilson
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First Backpack of the Year - March 18, 2000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
91 F at my house so I packed only a jacket and pants. Arrived at
Crystal Lake in the San Gabriel mtns at about 5PM. There were
the usual campers blaring music so I packed out immediately. 77
at 6500 feet. The sun set behind the ridge and the temp dropped
to 58.Hiked up to about 7200 feet where there were 3foot snow
drifts. Gaters would have been useful, a walking stick also. A
cool catabatic wind blew all night so I started afire. Everything
was so wet, I barely got it going. It got down to 40 and I didn't
even bring a hat. As usual, I didn't bring a tent. I just put pads on
the ground with a sleeping bag. For the first time in years, I
wasn't warm enough, so I got up at 4AM and rekindled the fire.
There was a full moon so there was plenty of light. The
moonlight and shadows on the snow is always very pretty. The
light from the moon and the city were so bright, I kept thinking it
was dawn. My footprints were the only ones on Big Cienega trail,
so I had the whole mountain to myself. Good training for my next
trips to Yosemite on April 15-24 and May7 to Sept 2.
My sacrifice to the camping god was my hand plastic trowel that I
had owned for my entire backpacking life of 25 years.
It melted after I left it too close to the fire.
-- Ed Lulofs
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Roundtop Roundtrip - March 19, 2000
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A note on the privately organized trip to Roundtop (10381 ft).
Clear skies and the imposing form of Roundtop in the skyline
spurred on the ten of us in the morning of Sunday the 19thof
March. We made good time on our snowshoes (George was the
only one on skis) to Lake Winnemucca, after having started at
8.45 am from the top of Carson Pass. At the snow-covered lake,
we headed right and then towards the ridgeline towards the
saddle between Roundtop and it's adjoining peak. Here the angle
got progressively steeper and we switched to crampons and made
our way towards the first summit. A couple of people decided that
the angle was a little too much for them and they prudently
decided to wait for us. The rest of us summitted at about
11.30am. While some preferred the first summit, some others did
the extra ridge walk towards the true summit. Getting over the
small rock band that is just below the high angled true summit
with cramponed boots added some spice to the climb. The views
were spectacular all around but the cold wind made us retract our
steps and very soon we all were back to the point where we had
left our snowshoes. The sun continued to shine and the walk out
was very pleasant and we were all back to the cars at 2.45pm, a
six hour day in all.
The snow was crusty and getting a little hard, but snowshoes or
skis were still needed or you will punch through. Ski conditions
were not the best but George still made the most of it all.
The mountain climbers that did the trip were, Adrienne Van
Gorden (co-leader), George Van Gorden, Rick Booth, Dee Booth,
Scott Kreider, Ron Karpel, David McCraken, Huy Nuygen, Dana
Le and leader and scrivener, Arun Mahajan.
-- Arun Mahajan
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Silver Canyon Point
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lori and I had often noticed the bump on the long ridge to the
right (south) of Silver Canyon while out running along the canals
north of town. We had been told that this had been a favorite of
Smoke Blanchard's.
Yesterday, Joe Kelsey, Toby, Lori and I bagged it. We parked just
barely into the entrance of Silver Canyon, which is east of Laws
and otherwise northeast of Bishop by three miles. An old 4wd
track led up the ridge about half way. The ridge would alternate
with rises and flat sections.
Atop the first rise was a television, which had apparently been
sacrificed according to the edict "Kill your Television". Spent
shell casings suggest that this may have been a more violent
event than a stoning alone.
Two hours later we gained the summit, all easy class 1 through
low sage and with good footing on the shaly ground. There was a
four-foot cairn, but no register so we left a modest one. We
lounged enjoying the view out over Bishop and the maze of
surrounding canals and then walked backdown.
Round trip stats: 4 miles, 2300 feet, 3.5 hours.
-- Eric and Lori
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Private Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but
are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club.
They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS
members.
*** Adams Without Family
Peaks: Mt Adams, WA (12,276', roped snow climb)
Dates: April 29-30
Contact: Steve Eckert
Before the tourist hoard arrives, but hopefully after the big loose
winter snows, we should have relative calm and isolation on the
third highest (and far eastern) Cascades volcano. We'll try to
minimize avalanche risk by staying on the ridge, and we'll avoid
rockfall and mudslides with a solid snowcap. Adams is not a
beginner climb at this time of year! Send recent experience
including roped snow climbs.
*** Lassen, not Again?
Peaks: Mount Lassen (10,457), Brokeoff Mountain(9235), class-2 snow
Dates: Sat-Sun, May 6-7
Maps: Lassen Peak
Contact: Ron Karpel, ronny@karpel.org, George Van Gorden, Ron Karpel
It is that time of year again when we hear the call "Go north peak
bagger." So again, we pack our gear and drive up to Lassen NP,
and again, we will climb to the top of Lassen and Brokeoff. We
schedule Lassen for Saturday and Brokeoff on Sunday. Both are
long snow hike/climb. Participants require to be experienced with
ice axe and crampons. Snowshoe or skis welcome.
*** Waddell Beach to Saratoga Gap/Hwy 35
Date: May 13, 2000
Time: Before Daylight
Contact: Joan Marshall jmarshal@legato.com or eves.408-972-8222
Claire Marshall (clairem14@excite.com)
Bonnie Ruesch bruesch@worldnet.att.net
Bob Suzuki 408-259-0772, rsuzuki@dsptlg.com
Details: Rated 6E, 28 miles, approx. 4,500 ft.ele. gain
Hike may take 12 hours, depending on how much lollygagging
goes on. Many of you have done this hike downhill, but how about
UPHILL? Some of us crazies would like to try it. But, we will need
help and lots of planning to make it work. That's why the notice is
going out SO early! It would be fun to organize another group of
hikers going down, (those who have to work on getting the knees
in shape) to meet the Uphill Crazies somewhere in the middle for
dessert and drinks. Also, looking for kind souls willing to volunteer
to shuttle these sick, sick, people to Waddell Beach at an ungodly
hour in the morning, or shuttle them back to Waddell Beach in the
evening. Leaders are working on some sort of reimbursement,
but right now the reward is good Karma. All participants must sign
up, and be experienced day hikers.
*** Spring Split Break
Peaks: Split Mtn (14,042), Mt Prater (13,471)
Rating: "Class 3" snow, ice axe & crampons, no rope
Dates: Sat-Sun, May 13-14
Contact: Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org
Get high this spring! People like the 14ers, so I'm returning to Red
Lake (10500) and bag Split from the east side. We should have
steep hard snow, not the rubble you'll find here in the summer, so
you must be comfortable with self arrest and crampon techniques.
If time allows, we'll get Prater on the way back from the saddle
between them. If you haven't been to Prater, beware the 10' knife
edge that pushes the Class 2 rating.
*** Feather Peak
Peak: Feather Peak (13,242 ft.), Class:4 snow
Date: May 27-29
Contact: Kai Wiedman, (650)347-5234
Feather Peak is a striking landmark dominating the Royce Lakes
basin. As a climbers' peak, known not only for its isolation but for
itsdifficulty by any route, it has earned the respect of many a
Sierraclimber. We will attempt the North Couloir featured in the
book "Sierra Classics."
*** Mt Shasta
Peak: Mt. Shasta 14,162 ft.,Class: 2/snow
Date: June 3-4
Contact: Kai Wiedman (650)347-5234
Co-Contact: Cecil Anison cecilann@earhlink.net
Mt. Shasta is a climbers' mountain, singular in its magnificence.
Sargent's Ridge will be an airy, challenging route with steep
traverses and mixed climbing. Please join us on this exhillarating
adventure.
*** TBD in the Rockies
Peaks: TBD
Dates: June 22-28 (a full week)
Contact: Steve Eckert
Paul Wilson, of the Colorado Mountain Club, has agreed to host a
select few California climbers at his house in the Rockies. This is
my first trip there, so I'm open to suggestions. Hopefully this trip
will lead to other trips (both in the Sierra Nevada and the Rockies)
with people from both areas. Since this is a long distance trip,
plans should be made as soon as possible.
*** Mt. Shasta via Avalanche Gulch
Date: June 23 - 25, 2000
Details: Mt. Shasta, 14,161 feet, class 2/snow
Contacts: Joan Marshall jmarshal@legato.com
Beginners Trip. No Leader. Backpack. Details later. Limit of six.
*** Climb-O-Rama 2000
Peaks: Mt Bago, Mt Bradley, Caltech Pk, Center Pk,
Deerhorn Mtn, Mt Ericsson, Gregorys Monument,
Mt Gould, Junction Pk, Mt Keith, The Minster, Mt
Rixford, Mt Stanford, University Pk, East Vidette,
West Vidette (class 2&3, plus XC backpacking)
Dates: July 29 - Aug 6 (a full week)
Contact: Bob Suzuki
Steve Eckert
Join us for our annual peak bagging orgy - including some of the
peaks above, but probably not ALL of them! We'll base camp in 3
or 4 places, and various sub-groups will split off to bag the peaks
they want before re-joining the main group. You MUST be
competent to navigate and climb on your own, since we're not
going to keep the group together at all times. Limited space
available. Send recent climbing experience and the list of peaks
you want, we'll pick the group by mid-April (may not be first-come-
first-served, $10 deposit refunded on the climb).
For more peak details (location, height, etc) see
http://www.climber.org/eckert/SierraPeaksList.html
*** San Benito County Peaks
Peaks: Laguna Mountain & others in San Benito County
Date: No set date
Contact: Bill Hauser, 408-243-4566
*** Nepal
Peak: Chulu West, 20,500 ft.
Date: October, 2000
Contact: Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com
Climb or Trek, We'll combine both for the ultimate adventure.
The trekking peak is Chulu West, 20,500ft. Its is rated as
moderate-difficult. Chulu West is on the Annapurna circuit, north
of the village of Braga. After the climb we pass over the Thorung
La Pass (17,700 ft) Our walk down to beautiful Muktinath brings
us to a Hindu religious setting. You'll see many older Indians from
India who made this arduous jouney. Most of the older people
consider this visit the fullfillment of their religious life. When
reaching Kali Gandaki river, there will be a side trip to Kagbeni, a
village that lost its way in time. Trek starts from Besisahar, return
to Beni road head then fly from Pokhara to KTM.
*** Argentina - January 2001
Peaks: A Seven Summit Mountain, Aconcaqua 6959 m
Contact: Warren Storkman, 650-493-895
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE BACK PAGE
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Rock Climbing Classifications
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The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for
which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all
possible conditions.
Class 1: Walking on a trail.
Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
Class 4: Requires rope belays.
Class 5: Technical rock climbing.
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